Puebla is the home of Talavera, a type of majolica earthenware. The Moors developed the technique for making it, and later started making it in Spain, in a town called Talavera. After the discovery of the New World, artisans brought the method to Puebla. And now, ironically, the making of Talavera has all but died out in Spain, but here it is practiced with great pride and fervor. There is even an association of Talavera factories that has established standards and certifies manufacturers. To be officially certified, a workshop must use only the traditional ingredients (no commercial ceramic mix or glazes) and methods; practically everything must be done by hand. There's no restriction on artistic taste, just the methods for making Talavera. So there's a good bit of variety from one workshop to another. Talavera pieces are not cheap, so you should look around in the showrooms until you find something you prefer over other styles. You should learn how to discern the cheap knock-offs from the real stuff.
And if you're interested in watching people make Talavera, several workshops offer tours. Uriarte Talavera, Calle 4 Poniente 911 (tel. 222/232-1598), charges $2 (£1.10) for its tour, but other places are free. The factory showroom has an impressive facade made completely of Talavera. And inside you'll see some great pieces displayed. There are nine or ten other certified manufacturers. Some use more modern patterns; some are more traditional. A couple of makers are in nearby Cholula. One workshop has a small restaurant in downtown Puebla that serves meals on its own Talavera. It's a pretty little place called Talavera Celia at Calle 5 Oriente 608 (tel. 222/242-3663). There's one workshop in the Parián area -- Talavera Armando, at Calle 6 Norte 408 (tel. 222/232-6468). If enough people are around, they'll get a free tour. Talavera de la Luz specializes in making large maps and panoramic views in Talavera tiles. It has exhibited some of its largest pieces in museums in the United States.
The Mercado de Artesanías (El Parián), is a pedestrian-only, open-air shopping area just east of Calle 6 Norte between calles 2 and 6 Oriente. You'll see rows of neat brick shops selling inexpensive crafts and souvenirs. Don't judge all Talavera pottery by what you see here, though; the style in many cases is overblown. The shops are open daily from 10am to 8pm. Bargain to get a good price. While you're in this area, you can take a look at the Teatro Principal.
For antiques browsing, go to Callejón de los Sapos (Alley of the Frogs), about 3 blocks southeast of the zócalo near Calle 4 Sur and Calle 7 Oriente. Wander in and out; there's good stuff large and small. Shops are generally open daily from 10am to 2pm and 4 to 6pm. On Saturday mornings there's a flea market in the little square. If you're there between 12:30 and 5:30pm, stop by La Pasita, across Calle 5 from the Plaza de los Sapos, to taste homemade cordials and browse through the owner's humorous collection of Mexicana. Start with a pasita, then work your way up to a China Poblana -- a layered cordial of red, white, and green liqueurs. The owner is an inveterate leg-puller.
