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While good food other than hearty Patagonian barbecue is an issue in Aysén, quite a number of places to stay have sprung up recently in this area, from lakeshore cabañas to basic residences and some real gems. In Puerto Ibañez on the north shore, you can stay at the Hostería Shehen Aike (tel. 67/423284; www.shehenaike.cl). On the Carretera Austral near Bahía Murta, you'll find the Hospedaje Patagonia (tel. 67/419600), part of the Transpatagonia rural hostel network (www.rutatranspatagonia.cl). In Puerto Río Tranquilo (www.riotranquiloaysen.cl), two lakefront hosterías form bookends to the village. The first (from the north), Hostería Costanera (tel. 2/196-0072), has better rooms with private baths and lake views, but also a rudimentary gas station; the friendlier Carretera Austral (tel. 67/419500) has better shared rooms with cleaner baths and a fine cabaña. On the south shore of the lake, on the road towards Chile Chico, consider the upscale Mallín Colorado Eco-Lodge (tel./fax 2/234-1843; www.mallincolorado.cl). In Chile Chico on the south shore, try the charming Hostería de la Patagonia (tel. 67/411337), just outside town on the Camino Internacional; there are cheap, basic residenciales in the village.

To the south, on the shore of the lake of the same name, Puerto Bertrand holds several residenciales and the high-quality Cabañas Campo Baker (tel. 67/411447; campobakerchile@123.cl), with fine views of the lake from most of the two-story bungalows and owned and run by fun and charming Italian Orlando Scarito; full board and multiday programs are available. The similar Green Baker Lodge (tel. 9/179116; www.greenbakerlodge.cl) is a few kilometers away on the shore of the Baker River, "next door" to the Patagonia Baker Lodge.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.