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Since Puerto Pirámides is the only town on the peninsula, it's entirely tourist-oriented and, therefore, very expensive. The only gas station on the peninsula is here. Whale-watching tours depart from here, so it is a stopover point for people who are visiting the park. Diving trips also leave from here, and the few hotels are frequently filled with groups of divers from Europe. From late December to late March, when the whales leave the bay, it's possible to kayak and swim, and the area becomes a destination for beach-seeking Argentine vacationers. But the main draw is the whale-watching trips. The cost is about $35 (£24) per person, but if you're staying overnight, I encourage you to bargain with Captain Pinino to arrange your own excursion. Staying here also gives you best access to the sunset whale-watching trips, which are beautiful. Sometimes you can even hear the whales at night from your room. A few nights here will leave you relaxed and in touch with nature.

Captain Pinino at Whales Argentina (tel. 2965/495015; www.whalesargentina.com.ar) has the newest boat around, and he is fun and very experienced. There's usually a group whale-watching trip at around 10:30am daily, but he can arrange private trips later in the day as well.

For kayaking (in the summer), try either Hydrosport (tel. 2965/495065) or Moby Dick (tel. 2965/495122). Even if you've never dived before, Patagonia Scuba (tel. 2965/495030) will take you out for a first dive, and will take more seasoned divers for night and deep dives.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.