Active Pursuits

Beaches

Playa Principal, where small boats are available for fishing and tour services, and Playa Marineros, adjacent to the town center on a deep bay, are the best swimming beaches. Beach chairs and sun shades rent for about $5 (£2.50), which may be waived if you order food or drinks from the restaurants that offer them. Playa Zicatela, which has lifeguards and is known as the "Mexican Pipeline," adjoins Playa Marineros and extends southeast for several kilometers. The surfing part of Zicatela, with large curling waves, is about 4km (2 1/2 miles) from the town center. Due to the size and strength of the waves (particularly in summer), it's not a swimming beach, and only experienced surfers should attempt to ride Zicatela's powerful waves. Stadium-style lighting has been installed in both of these areas, in an attempt to crack down on nighttime beach muggings. It has diminished the appeal of the Playa Principal restaurants -- patrons now look into the bright lights rather than at the sea. Lifeguard service has recently been added to Playa Zicatela, although the lifeguards are known to go on strike. The best beach for learning how to surf is called La Punta.

Barter with one of the fishermen on the main beach for a ride to Playa Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito, two beaches separated by a rocky outcropping. Here, and at other small coves just west of town, swimming is safe and the overall pace is calmer than in town. You'll also find palapas, hammock rentals, and snorkeling equipment. The clear blue water is perfect for snorkeling. Local entrepreneurs cook fresh fish, tamales, and other Mexican dishes right at the beach. Puerto Angelito is also accessible by a road that's a short distance from town, so it tends to be busier. You can also take a cab to the cliff above Playa Carrizalillo, and descend one hundred odd stone stairs to a calm and secluded swimming beach. Playa Bacocho is on a shallow cove (dangerous for swimming) farther northwest and is best reached by taxi or boat rather than on foot. It's also the location of the Villa Sol Beach Club. A charge of $10 (£5) gives you access to pools, food and beverage service, and facilities.

Surfing

Zicatela Beach, 2.5km (1 1/2 miles) southeast of Puerto Escondido's town center, is a world-class surf spot. A surfing competition in August and Fiesta Puerto Escondido, held for at least 3 days each November, celebrate Puerto Escondido's renowned waves. There is also a surfing exhibition and competition in February, for Carnaval. The tourism office can supply dates and details. Beginning surfers often start at Playa Marineros, before graduating to Zicatela's awesome waves, although you will see intermediate surfers out at La Punta, at the southernmost end of Playa Zicatela. The waves and strong currents make Zicatela dangerous for swimming.

Nesting Ridley Turtles

The beaches around Puerto Escondido and Puerto Angel are nesting grounds for the endangered Ridley turtle. During the summer, tourists, on lucky occasions, can see the turtles laying eggs or observe the hatchlings trekking to the sea.

Escobilla Beach near Puerto Escondido seems to be the favored nesting grounds of the Ridley turtle. In 1991, the Mexican government established the Centro Mexicano la Tortuga, known locally as the Turtle Museum. On view are examples of all species of marine turtles living in Mexico, plus six species of freshwater turtles and two species of land turtles. The center (tel. 958/584-3376) lies on Mazunte Beach, near the town of the same name about an hour and a half from Puerto Escondido. Hours are Wednesday through Sunday from 9:30am to 5pm; suggested donation is $2 (£1). If you come between July and September, ask to join an overnight expedition to Escobilla Beach to see mother turtles scuttle to the beach to lay their eggs. The museum is near a unique shop that sells excellent naturally produced soaps, shampoos, bath oils, and other personal-care products. All are packaged by the local community as part of a project to replace lost income from turtle poaching. Buses go to Mazunte from Puerto Angel about every half-hour, and a taxi ride is around $5.50 (£2.75). You can fit this in with a trip to Zipolite Beach. Buses from Puerto Escondido don't stop in Mazunte; you can cover the 65km (40 miles) in a taxi or rental car.

The tourism cooperative at Ventanilla provides another chance to get up close to the turtles. The villagers here have created their own ecological reserve that encompasses a nearby lagoon, inhabited by crocodiles and dozens of species of birds, and a beach where sea turtles lay their eggs. A boat ride to see the crocs costs $4 (£2) and nothing on the menu at the restaurant is over $7 (£3.50). Turtles lay their eggs here year round, although summer is the prime season, so there's always a possibility that a nest is about to hatch. Helping the locals release the eggs is free. Ventanilla is a $2 (£1) taxi ride from Mazunte or the nearby beaches, but if you're planning to stay past sunset, ask your driver to wait; it's a long walk in the dark to the main highway.

Guided Walking Tours

For local information and guided walking tours, visit the Oaxaca Tourist Bureau booth (tel. 954/582-1186; ginainpuerto@yahoo.com). It's just west of the pedestrian street. Ask for Gina, who speaks excellent English and is incredibly helpful. She provides information with a smile, and many say she knows more about Puerto Escondido than any other person. On her days off, Gina offers walking tours to the market and to little-known nearby ruins. Filled with history and information on native vegetation, a day with Gina promises fun, adventure, and insight into local culture.

A Mixtec ceremonial center was discovered in early 2000, just east of Puerto Escondido, and since is considered a major discovery. The site covers many acres with about 10 pyramids and a ball court, with the pyramids appearing as hills covered in vegetation. A number of large carved stones have been found. Situated on a hilltop, it commands a spectacular view of Puerto Escondido and the Pacific coast. The large archaeological site spans several privately owned plots of land and is not open to the public, although Gina has been known to offer a guided walking tour to it.