Corcovado National Park

Exploring Corcovado National Park is not something to be undertaken lightly, but neither is it the expedition that some people make it out to be. The weather is the biggest obstacle to overnight backpacking trips through the park. Within a couple of hours of Puerto Jiménez (by 4WD vehicle) are several entrances to the park; however, there are no roads in the park, so once you reach any of the entrances, you'll have to start hiking. The heat and humidity are often quite extreme, and frequent rainstorms can make trails fairly muddy. If you choose the alternative -- hiking on the beach -- you'll have to plan your hiking around the tides when often there is no beach at all and some rivers are impassable.

Because of its size and remoteness, Corcovado National Park is best explored over several days; however, it is possible to enter and hike a bit of it for day trips. The best way to do this is to book a tour with your lodge on the Osa Peninsula, from a tour company in Puerto Jiménez, or through a lodge in Drake Bay.

Getting There & Entry Points

The park has four primary entrances, which are really just ranger stations reached by rough dirt roads. When you've reached them, you'll have to strap on a backpack and hike. Perhaps the easiest one to reach from Puerto Jiménez is La Leona ranger station, accessible by car, bus, or taxi.

If you choose to drive, take the dirt road from Puerto Jiménez to Carate (Carate is at the end of the road). From Carate, it's a 3km (1 3/4-mile) hike to La Leona. To travel there by "public transportation," pick up one of the collective buses (actually, a 4WD pickup truck with a tarpaulin cover and slat seats in the back) that leave Puerto Jiménez for Carate daily at 6am and 1:30pm, returning at 8am and 4pm. Remember, these "buses" are very informal and change their schedules regularly to meet demand or avoid bad weather, so always ask in town. One-way fare is around $7 (£3.50). A small fleet of these pickups leaves just south of the new bus terminal, and will stop to pick up anyone who flags them down along the way. Your other option is to hire a taxi to suit your schedule, which will charge approximately $60 to $70 (£30-£35) each way to or from Carate.

En route to Carate, you will pass several campgrounds and small lodges as you approach the park. If you are unable to get a spot at one of the campsites in the park, you can stay at one of these and hike the park during the day.

You can also travel to El Tigre, about 14km (8 3/4 miles) by dirt road from Puerto Jiménez, where there's another ranger station. But note that trails from El Tigre go only a short distance into the park.

The third entrance is in Los Patos, which is reached from the town of La Palma, northwest of Puerto Jiménez. From here, there's a 19km (12-mile) trail through the center of the park to Sirena, a ranger station and research facility. Sirena has a landing strip that is used by charter flights.

The northern entrance to the park is San Pedrillo, which you can reach by hiking from Sirena or by taking a boat from Drake Bay or Sierpe. It's 14km (8 3/4 miles) from Drake Bay.

If you're not into hiking in the heat, you can charter a plane in Puerto Jiménez to take you to Carate or Sirena. A five-passenger plane should cost around $200 to $300 (£100-£150) one-way, depending on your destination. Contact Alfa Romeo Air Charters (tel. 735-5353 or 735-5112; www.alfaromeoair.com) for details.

Fees & Regulations

Park admission is $8 (£4) per person per day, or you can buy a 5-day pass for $17 (£8.50). Only the Sirena station is equipped with dormitory-style lodgings and a simple soda, but the others have basic campsites and toilet facilities. All must be reserved in advance by contacting the ACOSA (Area de Conservacion de Osa) in Puerto Jiménez (tel. 735-5036; fax 735-5276; www.corcovado.org). Its offices are adjacent to the airstrip. Only a limited number of people are allowed to camp at each ranger station, so make your reservations well in advance.

Beach Treks & Rainforest Hikes

The park has quite a few good hiking trails. Two of the better-known ones are the beach routes, starting at either the La Leona or San Pedrillo ranger stations. None of the hikes is easy, but the forest route from the Los Patos ranger station to Sirena, although long, is less taxing than either of the beach treks, which can be completed only when the tide is low. The route between the Los Patos/Sirena hike is 19km (12 miles) through beautiful rainforest.

Sirena is a fascinating destination. As a research facility and ranger station, it's frequented primarily by scientists studying the rainforest. One of the longest hikes, from San Pedrillo to Sirena, can be done only during the dry season. Between any two stations, the hiking is arduous and takes all day, so it's best to rest for a day or so between hikes if possible.

Remember, this is quite a wild area. Never hike alone, and take all the standard precautions for hiking in the rainforest. In addition, be especially careful about swimming in any isolated rivers or river mouths because most rivers in Corcovado are home to crocodiles.

Where to Stay & Dine in the Park: Campsites, Cabins & Cantinas

Reservations are essential at the various ranger stations if you plan to eat or sleep inside the park. Sirena has a modern research facility with dormitory-style accommodations for 28 persons, as well as a campground, soda, and landing strip for charter flights. There is also camping at the La Leona, Los Patos, and San Pedrillo ranger stations. Every ranger station has potable water, but it's advisable to pack in your own; whatever you do, don't drink stream water. Campsites in the park are $4 (bp]2) per person per night. A dorm bed at the Sirena station will run you $12 (£6) -- you must bring your own sheets, and a mosquito net is highly recommended -- and meals here are another $29 (£15) per day. Everything must be reserved in advance.

Trail Distances in Corcovado National Park

It's 14km (8 1/2 miles) from La Leona to Sirena. From Sirena to San Pedrillo, it's 23km (14 miles) along the beach. From San Pedrillo, it's 20km (12 1/2 miles) to Drake Bay. It's 19km (12 miles) between Sirena and Los Patos.

Important Corcovado Tips

If you plan to hike the beach trails from La Leona or San Pedrillo, be sure to pick up a tide table at the park headquarters' office in Puerto Jiménez. The tide changes rapidly; when it's high, the trails and river crossings can be dangerous or impassable.

If you plan to spend a night or more in the park, you'll want to stock up on food, water, and other essentials while you're in Puerto Jiménez. There's a minimarket in Carate, but the selection is limited. Although most of the stations have simple sodas, you need to reserve in advance if you plan to take your meals at any of these.