Between Cancun & Playa del Carmen
The coast directly south of the Cancún airport has several roadside attractions, all-inclusive hotels, small cabaña hotels, and some spa resorts. Much of the latest development is targeting the well-heeled traveler -- small luxury hotels with or without a marina and with or without a golf course. This stretch of coast between the airport and Playa del Carmen is only 51km (32 miles) long. Midway is Puerto Morelos.
Roadside Attractions -- Near the Puerto Morelos turnoff is Rancho Loma Bonita, which has all the markings of a tourist trap and offers horseback riding and ATV tours. For this sort of activity, I prefer Rancho Punta Venado, just south of Playa. You'll also come across Jardín Botánico Dr. Alfredo Barrera (no phone). Opened in 1990 and named after a biologist who studied tropical forests, the botanical garden is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm. Admission is $7 (£3.50). This place is disappointing because it's not maintained well. It will be of most interest to gardeners and plant enthusiasts, but it will probably bore children. They are much more likely to enjoy the interactive zoo, CrocoCun (tel. 998/850-3719), a zoological park a mile north of Puerto Morelos. It raises crocodiles from eggs and keeps several species of animals native to the Yucatán Peninsula. A visit to the reptile house is fascinating, though it may make you wary of venturing into the jungle. The rattlesnakes and boa constrictors are particularly intimidating, and the tarantulas are downright enormous. The guided tour lasts 1 1/2 hours. The guides have great enthusiasm, and the spider monkeys and wild pigs entrance kids. Wear plenty of bug repellent. The onsite restaurant, CrocoCun, is open daily from 8:30am to 5:30pm. Entrance fees are high: $18 (£9) adults, $12 (£6) children 6 to 12, free for children younger than 6.
New Golf Resort -- Competition for the luxury tourism market has heated up with the arrival of Mayakoba. They started with a golf course designed by Greg Norman. Then they organized a PGA tour event here in 2007 -- the first PGA tournament ever in Mexico. And they've lined up a dazzling collection of resort properties: Fairmount, Viceroy, Rosewood, and Banyan Tree. When I visited, only the Fairmount was open, but the rest were going to be in operation by 2008. The resorts are designed to be a kind of connected endeavor -- guests of one resort can sample the amenities of the other three, including restaurants and spas. For more information, check out www.mayakoba.com.
Spa Resorts -- In the area around Puerto Morelos, four spa resorts provide variations on the hedonistic resort experience. Only 20 to 30 minutes from the Cancún airport, they are well situated for a quick weekend escape from the daily grind. You can jet down to Cancún, get whisked away by the hotel car, and be on the beach with a cocktail in hand before you can figure out whether you crossed a time zone. All four resorts pride themselves on their service, amenities, and spa and salon treatments. Being in the Yucatán, they add the healing practices of the Maya, especially the use of temazcal, the native steam bath. Rates quoted below include taxes but not the 5% to 10% service charge.
Beach Cabañas
Five kilometers (3 miles) north of Playa are some economical lodgings on a mostly rocky beach. A sign that says PUNTA BETE marks the access road to Xcalacoco; in a short time you reach the water. Before you do, the road forks off in a few places, and you'll see signs for different cabañas. The word may conjure up visions of idyllic dwellings with thatched roofs, but on the Yucatecan coast, it usually means simple lodging. This is mostly the case here; rates run $70 to $85 (£35-£43) a night for two people. Of the four groupings of cabañas in Xcalacoco, the best is Coco's Cabañas (www.travel-center.com). It's a handful of rooms with electricity and ceiling fans; a good little budget restaurant; and a small pool. Two of the rooms have air-conditioning. Next door is the spa resort Tides Riviera Maya.
