"It's heaven and hell -- all rolled into one tiny island," a Trenton, N.J., woman said to us about Puerto Rico on a flight from San Juan to Miami. "My husband loved it. I couldn't wait to get back home. But then he's a golfer and a fisherman, and while he was doing that, there were only so many crafts I could buy."
Ever since Castro in the early 1960s started chasing the gringos out of Havana, Puerto Rico has blossomed as a tourist destination, with its towering mountains, rainforests, long beaches, and vibrant Spanish culture.
The woman we talked to saw only the island's crime, unemployment, bad traffic, and what to her was "poor food." But in spite of its many critics, Puerto Rico must be doing something right. Of course, you can get bad food here, but in many places the island's cuisine, an adaptation of many cooking styles, is the finest in the Caribbean.
History buffs will get more ancient buildings and monuments here than anywhere else in the Caribbean, many of them dating back some 500 years, to the Spanish conquistadors. Add some of the best golf and tennis in the West Indies, posh beach resorts, tranquil and offbeat (though not luxurious) government paradores (country inns or guesthouses), and lots of Las Vegas-type gambling, glitter, and extravagant shows, and you've got a formidable attraction.
There are problems here. As in many major cities, you could be mugged or have your car stolen or even hijacked. Service personnel are often gruff and unhelpful. Although there are country retreats where you can escape the masses, San Juan and most of the rest of the island are simply overcrowded.
There is also some anti-United States sentiment here. Not all locals passionately embrace Uncle Sam. When we were seeking some real lowdown salsa joints away from the tourist hordes, a taxi driver told us, "I can take you to a club -- maybe several clubs -- but I'm not sure you'd get back in one piece."
Despite its drawbacks, we still rate Puerto Rico as one of the top Caribbean destinations, right up there with Aruba, St. Thomas, Jamaica, and Barbados.
