Driving Tours

La Ruta Panorámica in 2 Days

"The Panoramic Route" -- called La Ruta Panorámica by Puerto Ricans -- winds its way through the Central Mountains in the heart of the island for some 100 miles (161km). This is the most scenic drive in the Caribbean. The mountains are the home of the jíbaro, the country farmer whose way of life is fast disappearing in modern Puerto Rico. The agricultural life and ways of the jíbaro, which have inspired some of the most important works of literature and a whole genre of country music, still live on in the central mountain towns, however, and this route is the most comprehensive way of seeing them. Expect winding, twisting roads, and don't forget to blow your horn as you turn blind curves. After rainstorms, there are frequent washouts. Although locals speed by you as if in a race car, it's advisable for newcomers to go no more than 25 mph (40kmph). In spite of some difficulties, it's worth the effort to cross through the Cordillera Central's dramatic peaks and valleys. The Cordillera mountains rise more than 4,000 feet (1,219m) in some places. You'll pass by Cerro de Punta, which at 4,389 feet (1,338m) is the highest in Puerto Rico. These mountains have helped define Puerto Rico. Start: Drive from San Juan.

Day 1: From Carite Forest to Jayuya

Leave San Juan early in the morning for the drive south, taking Highway 52 to exit 32, which will take you to Route 184, also heading south. Stay on 184 as it cuts right through the most scenic parts of the Carite Forest Reserve. Roadside grills tempt with the succulent lechón (roasted pig) sold at the area's famous lechoneras. Sanjuaneros flock here on weekends to enjoy the cool mountain breezes, the grills, and even dance halls that line 184. There are also cool swimming holes throughout the forest and recreation areas. For more information, refer to Carite Forest Reserve.

Highway 184 leads into Route 179, which you can follow out of the forest reserve (signposts lead to Lago Carite, the largest lake in the forest). To continue west along the route, follow the signs northwest to the town of Cayey. The surrounding area is called the "Switzerland of Puerto Rico," and many sanjuaneros use it as their vacation homes.

Once at Cayey, follow Route 1 south to Route 7722. On Route 7722, turn right onto Route 722 which leads directly into Aibonito.

You'll feel you've wandered back in time, especially in the Aibonito town center with its main plaza and historic church. Only the most adventurous hike the Cañon de San Cristóbal, a canyon lying between Aibonito and Barranquitas. Scenically, it's beautiful but can be dangerous without a guide (visitors have been killed here). With its waterfalls and forbidding cliffs, it's a thrill but risky. San Cristóbal is cut 500 feet (152m) into the Cordillera Central and lies some 5 miles (8km) north of Aibonito.

In Aibonito, there are many cafeterias around the main plaza, but the best restaurant in town is La Piedra Restaurant (tel. 787/735-1034), offering gourmet comida criolla using mountain-grown herbs.

Leave Aibonito and follow the signs toward your next stopover, Toro Negro Forest Reserve and Lake Guineo. The forest reserve lies to the west and is reached by heading west on Route 723, which becomes Route 143 as it winds its way to the reserve.

The route winds through lush tropical forest then ascends to panoramic views reaching from the north to the south coasts. Stop inside the forest at the Recreativa Doña Juana, a picnic area beside a swimming pool fed by mountain streams. The restaurant here serves good Puerto Rican barbecue. The nearby Visitors Center, at Route 143 Km 32.4 (tel. 787/867-3040), offers you a trail map; it's open daily from 8am to 4pm. There are no supplies in the park, so bring mosquito repellent and bottled water.

In the eastern side of the forest is the famous Doña Juana Waterfall (Rte. 149 Km 41.5), cascading 120 feet (37m) over a rock-strewn cliff.

Head for the remote mountain town of Jayuya, surrounded by big green mountains, to the country inn Parador Hacienda Gripiñas. From Route 143 cut north along Route 149 and then turn west at the junction of Route 144 signposted into Jayuya.

Day 2: Utuado, Adjuntas & Maricao

Leave Jayuya in the morning, cutting south on Route 44, then northwest along Route 140 (which becomes Rte. 111), following the signs into the town of Utuado, site of another well-known parador, Casa Grande Mountain Retreat, which could have made another stopover for you if you had chosen not to spend the night at Jayuya.

With its Spanish-styled central plaza, Utuado still reflects its colonial roots, although it was once inhabited by the Taíno Indians. Most visitors arrive here to explore the Indian Ceremonial Park at Caguaña. This is the largest site of Taíno ruins in Puerto Rico.

After wandering around the town for an hour or two, head for our next stopover, the coffee-exporting town of Adjuntas. Follow the curvy Route 10 south, a grand panoramic ride but tricky. Once again, you confront a colonial-inspired central plaza and can spend another hour or two exploring the narrow streets. This town has an Oficina de Turismo at the Town Hall (Acaldía) on a corner of the main square (tel. 787/829-5000), open Monday to Friday 8am to 4:30pm. Adjuntas is known as "the town of the sleeping giant" because of its silhouette created by the enveloping mountains. In addition to coffee, it is also an important producer of oranges.

Ruta Panorámica winds south (follow the signs) to Bosque Estatal de Guilarte, another beautiful spot. Composed of 3,600 acres (1,457 hectares), most of Guilarte is rainforest (hardly El Yunque, however). Sierra palms dot the forest, and Lago Garzas, a lake, is popular with fishermen. If you purchased the makings of a picnic lunch in Adjuntas, you can enjoy it in a sheltered area at the junction of Route 518 and Route 131, complete with cooking grills and toilets. You can climb a trail that takes you to the peak of Monte Guilarte at 3,950 feet (1,204m).

After a visit, head north again along Route 518, traveling west to our final stopover at Maricao. This winding road changes its number so many times you'll lose track; follow the signposts to Maricao and not the route numbers and you won't go wrong.

This is the largest state forest on the island, and you can spend all day exploring it. The coffee-producing town is the smallest municipality in Puerto Rico. It lies at the far western end of Ruta Panorámica, and is an idyllic retreat for exploring, as it's surrounded by mountain gorges, old bridges, terraced houses, rushing streams of cold water, and enough switchback roads to challenge the most skilled of alpine drivers.

Since there are picnic areas in the forest, we suggest you take lunch here surrounded by mountain peaks. You can pick up food at El Buen Café (tel. 787/838-4198), on the main plaza of Maricao, ordering sandwiches and drinks or else plates of comida criolla, local island dishes. You'll find home-cooked Puerto Rican food for big flavor and few bucks. It's open most all the time, closing for Monday evenings.

There is a Visitor Center at Route 120 Km 16.2 (tel. 787/838-1040), which will provide maps of the forest and even hook you up with a private guide if you want to do more extensive exploring. Hours are Monday to Friday 7am to 3:30pm and Saturday and Sunday 8am to 3:30pm. If you climb Torre de Observación, you can take in a panoramic sweep of the entire western half of Puerto Rico. It is open daily from 8am to 4pm (free admission).

The best place for overnighting in the area is Parador Hacienda Juanita, a converted, 160-year-old former coffee plantation lodge in a beautiful setting. There's a wonderful restaurant on site, and meals are served in a dining room and a back porch overlooking a lush forest. Another option is to barrel on west down to Mayagüez, and then go on to the beach towns to the northwest or to the southwest. It's a two-hour drive from Mayagüez to San Juan, a distance of 98 miles (158km) up the west coast and across the north coast.