What's New

In Puerto Rico, change is as constant as the trade winds. Even beaches come and go. Here are some of the latest developments.

Where to Stay in San Juan

At the heart of the Condado's redevelopment revival lies Hotel La Concha: A Renaissance Resort (tel. 977/524-7778 or 787/721-7500), which reopened in December 2007 on the 50th anniversary of its inauguration. A landmark of the island's Tropical Modernism movement, this hotel was saved from the wrecking ball by island architects and former governor Sila María Calderón. The building, by famed island architects Osvaldo Toro and Miguel Ferrer, with the seashell restaurant by Mario Savatori, has been beautifully restored and updated by architect José Marchand and interior designer Jorge Rosselló. Today, the lobby and pool areas combine a number of distinct locales in a world that is equal parts natural tropics and urban urbane. Everywhere one looks is water, from spraying fountains to serene infinity pools.

The property is adjacent to the Windows to the Sea oceanfront park and new luxury buildings, with designer boutiques, trendy restaurants and luxury residences as top tenants. Condado's main road, Avenida Ashford, is now lined with dining options and interesting shops from one end to the other, as well as spas, watersports outfitters and other services of interest.

Where to Dine in San Juan

You might think the view is the best thing at Budatai (tel. 787/725-6919), but that's only until you try the food. Roberto Trevino, who battled Mario Batali on TV's Iron Chef program, offers a phenomenal menu here and brings his Latino-Asian musings to new heights -- literally. The second-floor space overlooks the oceanfront park adjacent to La Concha, and the terrace provides a palm-fringed view of the ocean. The people-watching is also spectacular, at the restaurant's bar or lounge.

A different temple to another superstar chef is Delirio (tel. 787/722-0444), the latest hit by the godfather of Nuevo Latino cuisine, Alfredo Ayala. The new digs are a slightly gothic renovation of a century-old Caribbean manor, a proper home to Ayala's experimentation with island culinary tradition (often delightfully combined with classic European culinary traditions). Check for occasional cooking classes with Ayala and other special events.

In the swanky Ritz-Carlton San Juan Spa & Casino, the most succulent steaks are being served at BLT Steak 787 (tel. 787/253-1700), in deluxe surroundings. This is French chef Laurent Tourondel's take on the American steakhouse. His steaks are hailed as the Caribbean's finest.

Sadly, one of our favorite restaurants, Zabó (at Calle Candina 14), has closed. The place blended bucolic charm with the superb innovative food of Paul Carroll, who built it from a simple deli into one of the most sought-after restaurants in Condado. Look for what Carroll is now up to, and who or what is now occupying these charming premises (enter via the alleyway leading from Av. Ashford between aves. Washington and Cervantes).

San Juan After Dark

A number of forces have converged to make San Juan the undisputed champion of nightlife in the Caribbean. The new José Miguel Agrelot Puerto Rico Coliseum (tel. 877/265-4736) gets the top world tours (Rolling Stones, Elton John, the Police, and so on), and it's a must-stop for Latin artists from Shakira to Maná. Meanwhile, the new Puerto Rico Convention Center (tel. 800/214-0420) hosts fabulous annual events like CIRCO, an international art fair, and the annual Puerto Rico Tourism Company New Year's Eve, which offers free entrance and the best in Latin musical talent. The event is broadcast live on Spanish language television across the states and Latin America.

The big new halls add to San Juan's existing entertainment options. For years, other city venues like the Tito Puente Amphitheater, a few art galleries, clubs, stadiums and gymnasiums have hosted first-class acts, from reggae to jazz bands, in more intimate settings. The annual Puerto Rican Heineken Jazz Fest is probably the genre's best annual showcase.

The new venues have also worked to put neighborhoods like Miramar, Santurce, and Hato Rey on the nightlife map, competing with well-worn tourist routes in Old San Juan, Condado, Ocean Park, and Isla Verde -- so have new ventures like the recently opened Fine Arts Cinema Café (Popular Center, Hato Rey; tel. 787/765-2339), our favorite movie house ever, with plush seats, gourmet meals and snacks, and beer, wine, fruit drinks, and lattes.

The improved transportation provided by the Tren Urbano light rail system, and its special feeder bus lines, which conveniently stay open late for big shows and other events, has also brought more nighttime traffic to these New San Juan areas. Even if you have no particular place to go, taking a ride on the Urban Train is a fun experience that gives an interesting view of the city during the day or night, from the futuristic Hato Rey financial district to the wonderful backyards of the city's gilded suburbs.

Where to Stay in Rio Grande

The Sol Melia property, a 582-room gem, ditched its all-inclusive concept and reopened as the Gran Melia Puerto Rico (tel. 866/436-3542 or 787/809-1770), with an emphasis on its luxurious first-rate spa, golf and watersports offerings (all squished in between the rainforest and gorgeous coastline).

The nearby Coco Beach golf course and country club was taken over by none other than The Donald himself, and renamed the Trump International Golf Club Puerto Rico (tel. 787/657-2000). Donald Trump announced a $600-million investment with a local partner to construct luxury vacation villas and make other improvements in 2008-9.

Meanwhile, a new Saint Regis resort of beachfront villas sprawling across the coast is being developed for a planned winter 2009 opening at the Bahia Beach Plantation Resort and Golf Club (tel. 787/857-5800). The golf course was renovated by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., with a breathtaking new design that was inaugurated in April 2008.

Where to Stay on Vieques

It seemed like yesterday that the Martineau Bay Resort & Spa opened up on Vieques, its first "real" resort, just before the Navy pullout in 2003, but it's already closed for renovations. The 156-room property is getting a multi-million dollar makeover to reopen as a W Resort & Spa (a Starwood flagship property) for the 2009 tourism season.