Side Trips

Manzanillo & the Manzanillo-Gandoca Wildlife Refuge

If you continue south on the coast road from Puerto Viejo, you'll come to a couple of even smaller villages. Punta Uva is 8km (5 miles) away, and Manzanillo is about 15km (9 1/3 miles) away. For a good day trip, you can catch the 7:15am bus from Puerto Viejo down to Manzanillo and then catch the 5:15pm bus back. There are several other buses running this route throughout the day, although it's always wise to check with ATEC about current local bus schedules. You could also hire a cab for around $6 (£3) to Punta Uva or $10 (£5) to Manzanillo. Alternatively, it's about 1 1/2 hours each way by bicycle, with only two relatively small hills to contend with. Although the road is ostensibly paved all the way to Manzanillo, between the near-constant potholes and washed-out sections, it's almost like riding an off-road trail. It's also possible to walk along the beach all the way from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo, with just a couple of short and well-worn detours inland around rocky points. However, I recommend you catch a ride down to Manzanillo and save your walking energies for the trails and beaches inside the refuge.

Manzanillo is a tiny village with only a few basic cabinas and funky sodas, although this has been changing in recent years. The most popular place to eat and hang out is Restaurant Maxi (tel. 2759-9086), an open-air joint located on the second floor of an old wooden building facing the sea. This place gets packed on weekends, especially for lunch.

The Manzanillo-Gandoca Wildlife Refuge encompasses the small village and extends all the way to the Panamanian border. Manatees, crocodiles, and more than 350 species of birds live within the boundaries of the reserve. The reserve also includes the coral reef offshore -- when the seas are calm, this is the best snorkeling and diving spot on this entire coast. Four species of sea turtles nest on one 8.9km (5 1/2-mile) stretch of beach within the reserve between March and July. Three species of dolphins also inhabit and frolic in the waters just off Manzanillo. Many local tour guides and operators offer boat trips out to spot them.

If you want to explore the refuge, you can easily find the single, well-maintained trail by walking along the beach just south of town until you have to wade across a small river. On the other side, you'll pick up the trail head. Otherwise, you can ask around the village for local guides or check out Aquamor (tel. 2759-9012), a kayak and dive operation located on the one main road in town. These folks rent kayaks for $6 (£3) per hour and offer a variety of guided excursions for between $15 and $65 (£7.50-£33) per person. Depending on tides and sea conditions, this is a great way to explore the mangroves and estuaries, visit several nearby beaches, and even snorkel or dive the nearby coral reef. A one-tank beach dive, with equipment and guide, costs $30 (£15) per person. They have a variety of tour and diving options, including PADI dive-certification courses, hikes into the Talamanca Mountains, dolphin-watching excursions, and trips to Bocas del Toro, Panama.

Sportfishers should check in with Bacalao Tours (tel. 2759-9116).

(Organic) Peas & Love -- Inside the Manzanillo-Gandoca refuge is the Punta Mona Center For Sustainable Living & Education (tel. 2222-4568; www.puntamona.org). With organic permaculture gardens and a distinctly alternative vibe, this place is open for day visits, overnight stays, and work-exchange and educational programs. A day trip to visit the center, its garden, and facilities, including a vegetarian organic lunch, costs $40 (£20); overnight stays cost $35 (£18), including three meals.

On to Panama

Costa Rica's southern zone, particularly Puerto Viejo, is a popular jumping-off point for trips into Panama. The nearest and most popular destination is the island retreat of Bocas del Toro. Most tour agencies and hotel desks in the area can arrange tours to Panama. If you're doing it yourself, it's easiest to fly directly from Limón on Nature Air (tel. 800/235-9272 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2299-6000; www.natureair.com), which has a daily flight that departs the Tobías Bolaños International Airport in Pavas at 1pm, stopping in Limón en route to pick up and discharge passengers. The one-way fare from Limón is $87 (£44). You can also take the local buses to the border at Sixaola. All the border formalities can be handled easily at the border, and onward bus connections wait on the Panamanian side to take you to Bocas del Toro.