Restaurants

In Puerto Viejo

To really sample the local cuisine, you need to look up a few local women. Ask around for Miss Dolly, Miss Sam, Miss Isma, and Miss Irma, who all serve up sit-down meals in their modest little sodas. In addition to locally seasoned fish and chicken served with rice and beans, these joints are usually a great place to find some pan bon (a local sweet, dark bread), ginger cakes, paty (meat-filled turnovers), and rondon. Just ask around for these women, and someone will direct you to them. In a similar vein, but with a fancier, large restaurant space, is Miss Elena Brown, who has set up shop on the outskirts of downtown, on the road heading south.

If you're looking for a light bite for breakfast, lunch, or a snack, check out Pan Pay (tel. 2750-0081), a French-run bakery and sandwich shop located next to Johnny's Place. Also, Jammin' Juice and Jerk Center (tel. 8826-4332), in the same building, specializes in jerk chicken, salads, and fresh juices. For casual fare, try E-Z Times (tel. 2750-0663), which is right in front of the water near the heart of town, and for Thai and Middle Eastern fare, head to Chile Rojo (tel. 2750-0025).

Puerto Viejo has a glut of excellent Italian restaurants; in addition to the places listed below, Amimodo (tel. 2750-0257) and Trattoria da Cesare (tel. 2750-0161) are both fine restaurants.

For breakfasts, desserts and hearty, healthy lunches, there's Bread & Chocolate (tel. 2750-0723). And if you're just looking for something to cool you off, try the new Mighty River's Ice Cream & Coffee Shop (tel. 2750-2016), which has delicious homemade ice cream.

That Rundown Feeling -- Rundown (or rondon) soup is a spicy coconut milk-based soup or stew made with anything the cook can run down -- it usually includes a mix of local tubers (potato, sweet potato, or yuca), other vegetables (carrots or corn), and often some fish and/or seafood. Be sure to try this authentic taste of the Caribbean.

Between Puerto Viejo & Manazanillo

As the beaches stretching south of Puerto Viejo keep getting more popular, there has been a corresponding increase in the number of places to grab a meal. In addition to the restaurants listed above and below, Johanna Restaurante (tel. 8887-6203) in Playa Cocles, and Cabinas Selvyn (no phone) at Punta Uva, are both excellent options for local cuisine and fresh seafood.

Finally, if you make it as far south as Manzanillo, Restaurant Maxi (tel. 2759-9086) is your best bet. This open-air spot is always packed, especially for lunch. A fresh-fish plate will cost you between $5 and $8 (£2.50-£4); lobster, in season, will cost around $14 (£7). Whatever you order comes with rice and beans, patacones (fried plantain chips), and a small side of cabbage salad.