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Though the city is the country's capital of folklore, there's not a whole lot happening in Puno after dark. Outside of festivals, nightlife is pretty much confined to a single street, consisting of a handful of bars and discos strung along (or just off) the pedestrian mall, Jirón Lima. My favorite watering hole, just off Jirón Lima, is Kamizaraky Rock Pub, Pasaje Grau 148 (no phone). A cozy and cool hangout with a loft space, it looks like a graffiti-filled mountain cabin and serves excellent cocktails to a young, gregarious clientele (with occasional live rock music). Along Jirón Lima itself, the jungle lodge and reggae-themed Positive Vibrations (no. 378; no phone) and Apu Salkantay (no. 425; tel. 051/363-955) are among the bars worth a stop for some decent music and hot drinks. La Hostería (no. 501) and Ekeko's (no. 355, 2nd Floor; tel. 051/365-986) often have live bands, and the latter has a large-screen TV showing soccer or videos, and a small dance floor. Kusillo's Pub, Libertad 259 (tel. 051/351-301), has a nightly happy hour and reggae, jazz, and blues, as well as occasional folklore shows. Shaman, Jr. Puno 505 (on the Plaza de Armas; no phone), is a second-floor bar that has free Internet access, pizzas, and drinks.

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