Though the city is the country's capital of folklore, there's not a whole lot happening in Puno after dark. Outside of festivals, nightlife is pretty much confined to a single street, consisting of a handful of bars and discos strung along (or just off) the pedestrian mall, Jr. Lima. My favorite watering hole is Kamizaraky Rock Pub [ST], Pasaje Grau 148 (no phone). A cozy and cool hangout with a loft space, it looks like a graffiti-filled mountain cabin and serves excellent cocktails to a young, gregarious clientele (with occasional live rock music). Along Jr. Lima itself, the jungle lodge and reggae-themed Positive Vibrations (no. 345; no phone) and Apu Salkantay (no. 425; tel. 051/363-955) are among the bars worth a stop for some decent music and hot drinks. La Hostería (no. 501) and Ekeko's (no. 355; no phone) often have live bands, and the latter has a large-screen TV showing soccer or videos, and a small dance floor. Kusillo's Pub, Libertad 259 (tel. 051/351-301), has a nightly happy hour and reggae, jazz, and blues, as well as occasional folklore shows. Shaman, Jr. Puno 505 (on the Plaza de Armas; no phone), is a second-floor bar that has free Internet access, pizzas, and drinks.