Side Trips

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

140km (87 miles) W of Buenos Aires

The tiny gem of Colonia del Sacramento, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, appears untouched by time. Dating from the 17th century, the old city boasts beautifully preserved colonial artistry down its dusty streets. A leisurely stroll into the Barrio Histórico (Historic Neighborhood) leads you under flower-laden windowsills to churches dating from the 1680s, past simple single-story homes from Colonia's time as a Portuguese settlement, and on to local museums detailing the riches of the town's past. The Barrio Histórico contains brilliant examples of colonial wealth and many of Uruguay's oldest structures. A mix of lovely shops and delicious cafes makes the town more than a history lesson.

Getting There -- The easiest way to reach Colonia from Buenos Aires is by ferry. FerryLíneas (tel. 02/900-6617) runs a fast boat that arrives in 45 minutes. Buquebús (tel. 02/916-1910) also offers two classes of service. Prices range from $18 to $40 (£9.90-£22) each way. A new ferryboat and bus combination service opened in 2006 to compete with what had been a monopoly for Buquebús. Colonia Express (in Buenos Aires tel. 54/11/4313-5100; in Montevideo tel. 02/901-9597; www.coloniaexpress.com) offers similar prices but a less frequent schedule.

Colonia is a good stopping-off point if you're traveling between Buenos Aires and Montevideo. COT (tel. 02/409-4949 in Montevideo) offers bus service from Montevideo and from Punta del Este.

Visitor Information -- The Oficina de Turismo, General Flores and Rivera (tel. 052/27000 or 052/27300), is open daily from 8am to 8pm. Speak with someone at the tourism office to arrange a guided tour of the town.

A Walk Through Colonia's Barrio Historico

Your visit to Colonia will be concentrated in the Barrio Histórico (Old Neighborhood), located on the coast at the far southwestern corner of town. The sites, which are all within a few blocks of each other, can easily be visited on foot within a few hours. Museums and tourist sites are open Thursday through Monday from 11:30am to 5:45pm. For less than $1 (55p), you can buy a pass at the Portuguese or municipal museums, which will get you into all the sites.

Start your tour at Plaza Mayor, the principal square that served as the center of the colonial establishment. To explore Colonia's Portuguese history, cross the Calle Manuel Lobo on the southeastern side of the plaza and enter the Museo Portugués (Portuguese Museum), which exhibits European customs and traditions that influenced the town's beginnings. Upon exiting the museum, turn left and walk to the Iglesia Matriz, among the oldest churches in the country and an excellent example of 17th-century architecture and design.

Next, exit the church and turn left to the Ruinas Convento San Francisco (San Francisco convent ruins). Dating from 1696, the San Francisco convent was once inhabited by Jesuit and Franciscan monks, two brotherhoods dedicated to preaching the gospel to indigenous people. Continue up Calle San Francisco to the Casa de Brown (Brown House), which houses the Museo Municipal (Municipal Museum). Here, you will find an impressive collection of colonial documents and artifacts, a must-see for history buffs.

For those with a more artistic bent, turn left on Calle Misiones de los Tapes and walk 2 blocks to the Museo del Azulejo (Tile Museum), a unique museum of 19th-century European and Uruguayan tiles housed in a gorgeous 300-year-old country house. Then stroll back into the center of town along Calle de la Playa, enjoying the shops and cafes along the way, until you come to the Ruinas Casa del Gobernador (House of the Viceroy ruins). The House of the Viceroy captures something of the city's 17th- and 18th-century magistrates, when the port was used for imports, exports, and smuggling. Complete your walk with a visit to the UNESCO-Colonia headquarters, where exhibits on the city's newly acquired Historic Heritage of Humanity status will place your tour in the larger context of South American history.

Where to Stay & Dine

Few people stay in Colonia, preferring to make a day trip from Buenos Aires or stop along the way to Montevideo. If you'd rather get a hotel, however, your best bets are the colonial-style Hotel Plaza Mayor, Calle del Comercio 111 (tel. 052/23193), and Hotel La Misión, Calle Misiones de los Tapes 171 (tel. 052/26767), whose original building dates from 1762. Both hotels charge from $80 (£44) for a double. A small Sheraton recently opened in the heart of Colonia (Continuación de la Rambla de Las Américas s/n; tel. 052/29000). The Four Seasons operates a luxury resort in nearby Carmelo, about 45 minutes away (Ruta 21, Km 262, Carmelo, Uruguay; tel. 0542/9000). For dining, Mesón de la Plaza, Vasconcellos 153 (tel. 052/24807), serves quality international and Uruguayan food in a colonial setting. Pulpería de los Faroles, Calle Misiones de los Tapes 101 (tel. 052/25399), in front of Plaza Mayor, specializes in beef and bean dishes and homemade pasta.