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In Depth

As the twin cities of the province of Québec, Montréal and Québec City have a stronger European flavor than Canada's other municipalities. Most residents' first language is French, and a strong affiliation with France continues to be a central facet of the region's personality.

The defining dialectic of Canadian life, in fact, is language, and it's a thorny issue that has long threatened to tear the country apart. Many Québécois have long believed that making Québec a separate, independent state is the only way to maintain their rich French culture in the face of the Anglophone (English-speaking) ocean that surrounds them. Québec's role within the Canadian federation has been the most debated and volatile topic of conversation in Canadian politics.

There were reasons for the festering intransigence, of course -- about 250 years' worth. After France lost power in Québec to the British in the 18th century, a kind of linguistic exclusionism developed, with wealthy Scottish and English bankers and merchants denying French-Canadians access to upper levels of business and government. This bias continued well into the 20th century.

Many in Québec, though, stayed committed to the French language after British rule was imposed. Even with later waves of other immigrant populations pouring in over the cities, there is still a kind of bedrock loyalty held by many to the province's Gallic roots. France may have relinquished control of Québec to Great Britain in 1763, but France's influence, after its 150 years of rule, remained powerful -- and still does. Many Québécois continue to look across the Atlantic for inspiration in fashion, food, and the arts. Culturally and linguistically, it is that tenacious French connection that gives the province its special character.

Two other cultural phenomena have emerged over the past 10 years. The first is an institutional acceptance of homosexuality: By changing the definition of "spouse" in 39 laws and regulations in 1999, Québec's government eliminated all legal distinctions between same-sex and heterosexual couples and became Canada's first province to recognize the legal status of same-sex civil unions. Gay marriage became legal in all of Canada's provinces and territories in 2005. Montréal, in particular, has transformed into one of North America's most welcoming cities for gay people.

The second phenomenon is an influx of even more immigrants into the province's melting pot. "Québec is at a turning point," declared an early 2008 report about the province's angst over the so-called reasonable accommodation of minority religious practices, particularly those of Muslims and Orthodox Jews. "The identity inherited from the French-Canadian past is perfectly legitimate and it must survive," the report continued, "but it can no longer occupy alone the Québec identity space."

Together with 70,000 aboriginal people from 11 First Nation tribes who live in the province, immigrants help make the region as vibrant and alive as any on the continent.

Long May They Wave: The Flags of Canada -- With a relatively small population spread over a territory larger than the continental U.S., Canadians' loyalties have always tended to be directed to the cities and regions in which they live, rather than to the nation at large. Part of this comes from the semi-colonial relationship the nation retained with England after the British North America Act made it self-governing in 1867 (Queen Elizabeth II is still on all the currency). The rest comes from the fact that Canada's citizens speak two different major languages. Canadians didn't even have a national anthem until O, Canada! was given the honor in 1980.

All this is reflected in the flags. Québécois began asserting themselves and declaring their regional pride after World War II, and officially adopted their "national" flag, the Fleurdelisé, in 1950. It employs blue-and-white crossbars with four fleurs-de-lis (one in each resulting quadrant), and is flown prominently in Québec City.

In 1965, the red-and-white maple leaf version of the Canadian flag was introduced, replacing a previous ensign that featured a Union Jack in the upper-left corner.

In the face of decades of hurt and outright hostilities between French and English Canada, there must be occasional sighs of longing in some quarters for the diplomatic display of the flag of Montréal. Adopted way back in 1832, it has red crossbars on a white background. The resulting quadrants have depictions of a rose, a fleur-de-lis, a thistle, and a shamrock. They stand, respectively, for the founding groups of the new nation -- the English, French, Scots, and Irish.


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Destination Guide Destination Guide Frommer's Montreal and Quebec City 2010 Destination Guide Frommer's Montreal and Quebec City 2010

Author: Leslie Brokaw
Pub Date: January 07, 2010
Price: $17.99

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