In One Day

The capital of this singular province bears scant resemblance to Montréal. The oldest walled city north of Mexico sustains the look of a European provincial city that keeps watch over the powerful St. Lawrence River. Entrancing in both winter and summer, it lays out a yearlong banquet of festivals and celebrations. If you're visiting between May and October in 2008, check www.MyQuebec2008.com for the most up-to-date details about celebrations taking place for the city's 400th anniversary. To take greatest advantage of all that the city has to offer, book a hotel or B&B within the walls of the Haute-Ville (Upper Town) or in the revitalized Basse-Ville (Lower Town). Start: Château Frontenac.

1. Terrasse Dufferin

First thing after unpacking and a rest, get to the Château Frontenac -- its peaked copper roofs can be seen from everywhere. In front of the hotel is a long promenade, the Terrasse Dufferin, which affords panoramic views of the old city's Basse-Ville (Lower Town) and the wide, wide river. In good weather, street performers entertain passersby; in the winter, an old-fashioned toboggan run is installed on the steep staircase at the south end.

2. Funicular

Take the funicular down from the north end of the Terrasse Dufferin. Traveling at a steep angle, it's enclosed in glass to take advantage of the views. (An alternative descent is via the Escalier Casse-Cou, which translates as "Breakneck Stairs" for reasons that are immediately apparent.) Both funicular and stairs wind up at rue du Petit-Champlain, down to the right, a pedestrian street of shops and cafés populated largely by tourists. Save a visit to the street for later.

Continue straight ahead down rue Sous-le-Fort, and make the first left turn.

3. Place-Royale

This small but picturesque square was the site of the first European colony in Canada and is surrounded by restored 17th- and 18th-century houses. The church on one side is the Eglise Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, built in 1688. Walk straight ahead past the Centre d'Interprétation de Place-Royale, on the left. At the end of the block, turn around to view a trompe l'oeil mural depicting citizens of the early city.

Continue in the same direction, making the first right turn (Rue de la Barricade) down toward the river. Turn left on rue Dalhousie and follow for a couple of blocks until you get to:

4. Musée de la Civilisation

This ambitious museum, filled with fascinating exhibits, can easily fill 2 or 3 hours. At the least, take in the permanent exhibit, Memoires, but there are other reasons to linger, many involving interactive displays.

Leaving, turn left, then left again, and right on rue du Sainte-au-Matelot.

5. Take a Break -- A Bounty of Bistros

Starting at the corner of rue St-Paul and rue Sault-du-Matelot is a continuous strand of bistros and casual eating places bending around to the left on rue St-Paul. Almost any of them will do for a snack or a meal, but our top choices are [c5a] L'Echaudé, 73 rue Sault-du-Matelot (tel. 418/692-1299), and [c5b] L'Ardoise, 71 rue St-Paul (tel. 418/694-0213). Both offer excellent value for classic French dishes, and both have sidewalk tables in summer. The first has an edge in quality and wine list; the second is known for its mussel choices and is preferable for families.

After eating continue along St-Paul.

6. Rue St-Paul and Marché du Vieux-Port

In the past decade, St-Paul has become the prime street for antiques and collectibles browsing. Turn right at rue St-Thomas and (carefully) cross busy rue St-André. Over to the left is the Marché du Vieux-Port (Old Port Market). Produce and other products of the farming island of Ile d'Orléans, seen downriver beyond the market, are sold here.

7. Espace 400e

To the right (south) of the market is Espace 400e, a new pavilion on the waterfront where the Centre d'Interprétation du Vieux-Port used to be. For the last few years, Québec City has been sprucing itself up and planning blow-out celebrations for 2008 to commemorate its 400th anniversary, and the pavilion will be the celebration's hub, hosting special exhibits, performances, conferences, and shows from June to September. After 2008, it will become a Parks Canada discovery center.

Retrace your steps along rue Dalhousie, the Château Frontenac looming up to your right. Soon you'll see the dock for the ferry to Lévis, on the opposite shore. While it's intended for commuters, it makes an inexpensive, scenic trip. A round-trip takes under an hour.

From the dock, the funicular back to Upper Town is only a short walk away. After this day, you'll want to take it. Alternatively, you might want to stop in for dinner at one of the bistros you've passed along the way.