In Three Days

While the romance of the capital is largely contained within the Lower and Upper Towns of Vieux-Québec, there is much to experience outside the old city. And though the suggested itineraries for the first 2 days can easily be extended over 3 days, especially if children and those with limited mobility are involved, do try to make time for at least one or two of the following attractions. Start: Take a taxi ride to the Musée des Beaux-Arts (although it isn't too long a stroll, about 30 min., for those so inclined).

1. Musée des Beaux-Arts du Québec

Standing at the southwestern end of the Parc des Champs-de-Bataille (Battlefields Park, also known as the Plains of Abraham), the capital's most important art museum focuses on the works of Québec-born painters and sculptors. Jean-Paul Riopelle, one of the best-known abstract expressionists, has his own permanent exhibition. Other galleries feature works of provincial artists from the earliest days of the colony to the present. The original 1933 museum is now connected to an adjacent structure by a glass-roofed pavilion that houses the reception area, museum shop, and café. Note the presence of the last, for you might wish to return for lunch as it is one of the better eateries in the area.

Walk outside and around back to:

2. Parc des Champs-de-Bataille

Get some fresh air with a stroll through the 108 hectares (267 acres) that is Canada's first national urban park and the city's playground. Within the park are two Martello towers, cylindrical stone defensive structures built between 1808 and 1812, as well as cycling and rollerblading paths, picnic grounds, and a bandstand called Kiosque Edwin-Bélanger where free concerts are given in the summer.

Go to the main street, Grand-Allée, near to the Musée, and cross over to the perpendicular street av. Cartier.

3. Avenue Cartier

Opposite the museum, avenue Cartier is a street of intriguing shops and restaurants. Foodies will want to check out Les Halles du Petit-Cartier, 1191 av. Cartier, near rue Fraser. The indoor mall has shops that sell fish, meats, cheeses, produce, pâtés, and deli treats. It's open 7 days a week. Down the street is one of the largest SAQ outlets in the city, selling a wide selection of wines and spirits.

4. Take a Break -- Restaurant Le Graffiti

You could put together an entirely satisfying pique-nique at Les Halles, but if you'd prefer a sit-down lunch, a solid candidate is Graffiti. It's an ebullient neighborhood establishment, a mostly Italian trattoria with more than sufficient pastas on the card, but with forays into less-expected areas, such as roasted pike with leeks and toasted almonds. 1191 av. Cartier (tel. 418/529-4949).

5. Grande-Allée

Walk back toward Haute-Ville along the Grande-Allée. It's a lot easier this way, as it's mostly downhill. In about 3 blocks, the shoulder-to-shoulder rows of cafés and clubs begin, with one of the largest on the right, Maurice. You might want to keep it in mind for this evening; it's a one-stop dining and entertainment emporium, with terrace bars, a good restaurant, VooDoo Grill, and a disco.

Continue on Grand-Allée until to the commanding Second Empire château on your left.

6. Hôtel du Parlement

This august structure houses the legislative body that Québécois proudly proclaim their "National Assembly." The building can be toured on your own, but there are free 30-minute guided tours in both French and English (as well as Spanish and Italian). Among the best sights are the Assembly Chamber and the Room of the Old Legislative Council.

Exiting, the walls of the old city are directly in front of you.