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Laurie Raphaël Frommer's Exceptional

Cuisine Fusion
Hours Tues-Fri 11:30am-2pm; Tues-Sat 5:30-10pm
Address
117 rue Dalhousie
Location At rue St-André, Basse-Ville (Lower Town)
Reservations Reservations recommended
Phone 418/692-4555
Web site www.laurieraphael.com
Prices Main courses C$38-C$49 (US$33-US$43/£16-£21); gourmet dinner menu C$94 (US$82/£40; 3-course chef's inspiration C$60 (US$52/£26); table d'hôte lunch C$23 (US$20/£9.90)
Credit Cards AE, DC, DISC, MC, V

Frommer's Review

Energized by the emergence of a challenging cadre of sharp young chefs and restaurateurs in the city, the owners of this smashingly creative restaurant tinker relentlessly with their handiwork. An overhaul of the space a couple of years ago made it a suitable arena for what has long been one of the city's most accomplished kitchens. Living up to its more sophisticated setting (which is tempered by decorating dashes of eye-popping red and electric pink), the platings are prettier than ever. Silky-smooth foie gras arrives on a teeny ice cream paddle, drizzled with a port and maple syrup reduction. Alaskan snow crab is accompanied by a bright-pink pomegranate terrine. Rabbit is served two ways: as a braised leg atop a traditional cassoulet, and trimmed like a rack of lamp. An egg yolk "illusion" of thickened orange juice encapsulated in a skin of pectin is served in a puddle of maple syrup in an Asian soup spoon. And so on. Service falls within the friendly/correct range, and the pace of the meal is spot-on. With all the vigorous new competition, this is still top of the order. The renovations, by the way, added a fancy public kitchen (they call it a "laboratory with a domestic touch") where chef/owner Daniel Vézina gives cooking classes twice a week.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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