Frommer's Review
Energized by the emergence of a challenging cadre of sharp young chefs and restaurateurs in the city, the owners of this smashingly creative restaurant tinker relentlessly with their handiwork. An overhaul of the space a couple of years ago made it a suitable arena for what has long been one of the city's most accomplished kitchens. Living up to its more sophisticated setting (which is tempered by decorating dashes of eye-popping red and electric pink), the platings are prettier than ever. Silky-smooth foie gras arrives on a teeny ice cream paddle, drizzled with a port and maple syrup reduction. Alaskan snow crab is accompanied by a bright-pink pomegranate terrine. Rabbit is served two ways: as a braised leg atop a traditional cassoulet, and trimmed like a rack of lamp. An egg yolk "illusion" of thickened orange juice encapsulated in a skin of pectin is served in a puddle of maple syrup in an Asian soup spoon. And so on. Service falls within the friendly/correct range, and the pace of the meal is spot-on. With all the vigorous new competition, this is still top of the order. The renovations, by the way, added a fancy public kitchen (they call it a "laboratory with a domestic touch") where chef/owner Daniel Vézina gives cooking classes twice a week.
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