Utopie

Frommer's Review

It's still young, but Utopie has proven so far to have the essential ingredients for its considerable success. The clientele has a stylish sheen, the interior is almost painfully chic, the food isn't same-old, and the location is sufficiently out-of-the-way to require that customers are those in the know. Stands of birch trunks march down the middle of the high-ceilinged space, and blown-up photos of bark are aligned on one wall. The chef is an owner, along with three others who run the front; all are young and clearly ambitious. Sautéed lotte (monkfish) was joined with translucent baby bok choy and wild asparagus no thicker than bean sprouts one night, with garlic cream another. One menu staple is the duck confit with braised endive and onion compote. All is calm and refined, leaving some dishes somewhat listless, but with no startling clashes of flavor. The all-out meal is the six-course degustation menu with a wine pairing for C$105 (US$91/£45).

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