Discovering the Reef

Snorkeling the Reef can be a wondrous experience. Green and purple clams, pink sponges, red starfish, purple sea urchins, and fish from electric blue to neon yellow to lime are truly magical sights. The rich colors of the coral only survive with lots of light, so the nearer the surface, the brighter and richer the marine life. That means snorkelers are in a prime position to see it at its best.

If your Reef cruise offers a guided snorkel tour or "snorkel safari," take it. Some include it as part of the price, but even if you pay an extra A$30 (US$24/UK£12) or so, it is worth it. Most safaris are suitable for both beginners and advanced snorkelers, and are led by marine biologists who tell you about the sea creatures you are seeing. Snorkeling is easy to master, and crews on cruise boats are always happy to tutor you.

A day trip to the Reef also offers a great opportunity to go scuba diving -- even if you have never dived before. Every major cruise boat listed in "Day Trips to the Reef" and many dedicated dive boats listed in "Diving the Reef" offers introductory dives that allow you to dive without certification to a depth of 6m (20 ft.) in the company of an instructor. You will need to complete a medical questionnaire and undergo a 30-minute briefing on the boat. (Intro dives are also called resort dives because many resorts offer something similar, giving you 1 or 2 hr. instruction before taking you to a nearby reef to dive.)

Reef Health & Safety Warnings -- Coral is very sharp, and coral cuts get infected quickly and badly. If you cut yourself, ask the staff on your cruise boat for antiseptic cream, and apply it to grazes as soon as you come out of the water.

The sun and reflected sunlight off the water can burn you fast. Remember to put sunscreen on your back and the back of your legs, especially around your knees and the back of your neck, and even behind your ears -- all places that rarely get exposed to the sun but will be exposed as you swim facedown. Apply more when you leave the water.

Choosing a Gateway to the Reef

Cairns and Port Douglas are good places from which to visit the Reef -- but the quality of the coral is just as good off any town along the coast between Gladstone and Cairns. The Reef is pretty much equidistant from any point on the coast -- about 90 minutes away by high-speed catamaran. An exception is Townsville, where the Reef is about 2 1/2 hours away. Think carefully about where to base yourself.

The main gateways, north to south, are Port Douglas, Cairns, Mission Beach, Townsville, the Whitsunday Islands, Gladstone (for Heron Island), and Bundaberg. The Whitsundays have the added attractions of dazzling islands to sail among; beautiful island resorts offering a wealth of watersports and other activities; and a large array of diving, fishing, and day cruises. Most important, you can snorkel every day off your island or join a sailing or cruise day trip to a number of magnificent inner reefs much nearer than the main Outer Reef. Many people stay in Cairns simply because of its easy international airport access.

If you are a nonswimmer, choose a Reef cruise that visits a coral cay, because a cay slopes gradually into shallow water and the surrounding coral. The Low Isles at Port Douglas; Green Island, Michaelmas Cay, or Upolu Cay off Cairns; Beaver Cay off Mission Beach; and Heron Island are all good locations.

Day Trips to the Reef

The most common way to get to the Reef is on one of the motorized catamarans that carry up to 300 passengers each from Cairns, Port Douglas, Townsville, Mission Beach, and the Whitsunday mainland and islands. The boats are air-conditioned and have a bar, videos, and educational material, as well as a marine biologist who gives a talk on the Reef's ecology en route. The boats tie up at their own private permanent pontoons anchored to a platform reef. The pontoons have glass-bottom boats for passengers who don't want to get wet, dry underwater viewing platforms, usually a bar, sun decks, shaded seats, and often showers.

An alternative to traveling on a big tour boat is to go on one of the many smaller boats. These typically visit two or three Reef sites rather than just one. There are usually no more than 20 passengers, so you get more personal attention, and you get to know the other passengers. Another advantage is that you will have the coral pretty much all to yourself. The drawbacks of a small boat are that you have only the cramped deck to sit on when you get out of the water, and your traveling time to the Reef may be longer. If you're a nervous snorkeler, you may feel safer on a boat where you will be swimming with 300 other people.

Most day-trip fares include snorkel gear -- fins, mask, and snorkel (plus wet suits in winter, although you rarely need them) -- free use of the underwater viewing chambers and glass-bottom-boat rides, a plentiful buffet or barbecue lunch, and morning and afternoon refreshments. Diving is an optional activity for which you pay extra. The big boats post snorkeling scouts to keep a lookout for anyone in trouble and to count heads periodically. If you wear glasses, ask whether your boat offers prescription masks -- this could make a big difference to the quality of your experience! Don't forget, you can travel as a snorkel-only passenger on most dive boats, too.

The major launching points for day trips to the Reef are Port Douglas, Cairns, Mission Beach, Townsville, and the Whitsundays.

Overnighting on the Reef -- Down Under Dive (tel. 1800/079 099 in Australia, or 07/4052 8300; fax 07/4031 1373; www.downunderdive.com.au) in Cairns offers a chance to "sleep on the Reef" aboard the 36m (120-ft.) Spirit of Freedom, a sleek, modern motor yacht with electronic stabilizers, wide-screen TV/DVD, comfortable lounge areas, sun decks, and 11 luxury double or quad share cabins, each with an en-suite bathroom. There are 3-, 4-, and 7-day cruises to choose from. You will visit the popular Cod Hole and Ribbon Reef and on the 4- and 7-day trips, venture into the Coral Sea. A 3-day, 3-night trip will cost A$1,100 to A$1,750 (US$880-US$1,400/UK£440-UK£700) depending on your choice of cabin, and ends with a 193km (120-mile) one-way low-level flight from Lizard Island back to Cairns. The 4-day, 4-night cruise begins with the flight and then cruises from Lizard Island back to Cairns. It costs between A$1,375 (US$1,100/UK£550) and A$2,100 (US$1,680/UK£840) and includes up to 16 dives. A 7-day cruise, priced from A$2,325 to A$3,700 (US$1,860-US$2,960/UK£930-UK£1,480), is a combination of both shorter trips. On a 3-day trip you will fit in up to 11 dives, and up to 27 on the 7-day trip. Prices include meals and pickup from your Cairns accommodations. Allow around A$100 (US$80/UK£40) extra for equipment rental.