Diving the Reef

Divers have a big choice of dive boats that make 1-day runs to the Outer Reef and live-aboard dive boats for excursions that last up to a week. As a general rule, on a typical 5-hour day trip to the Reef, you will fit in about two dives. The companies listed below give you an idea of the kinds of trips available and how much they cost. This is by no means an exhaustive list -- there are far too many to include here. Prices quoted include full gear rental; knock off about A$20 (US$16/UK£8) if you have your own gear.

From Cairns -- Tusa Dive Charters (tel. 07/4040 6464; www.tusadive.com) runs two 24m (72-ft.) dive boats daily to two dive sites from a choice of 21 locations on the Outer Reef. The day costs A$190 (US$152/UK£76) for divers and A$130 (US$104/UK£52) adult or A$80 (US$64/UK£32) child ages 4 to 14 for snorkelers, with wet suits, guided snorkel tours, lunch, and transfers from your Cairns or northern beaches hotel. If you want to be shown the best spots, you can take a guided dive for an extra A$20 (US$16/UK£8). Day trips for introductory divers cost A$195 (US$156/UK£78) for one dive or A$240 (US$192/UK£96) for two. The groups have a maximum of 28 people, so you get personal attention. The company is the Nitrox and Rebreather facility for north Queensland, and certified divers can take two introductory dives on Nitrox/Safe Air in 1 day for A$220 (US$176/UK£88).

From Port Douglas -- The waters off Port Douglas are home to dramatic coral spires and swim-throughs at the Cathedrals; giant clams at Barracuda Pass; a village of parrot fish, anemone fish, unicorn fish, and two moray eels at the pinnacle of Nursery Bommie; fan corals at Split-Bommie; and many other wonderful sites.

Poseidon (tel. 1800/085 674 in Australia, or 07/4099 4772; www.poseidon-cruises.com.au) is a fast 24m (79-ft.) vessel that visits three Outer Reef sites. The day-trip price of A$155 (US$124/UK£62) for adults, A$120 (US$96/UK£48) for kids 3 to 12 includes snorkel gear, a marine biology talk, snorkel safaris, lunch, and pickups from Port Douglas hotels. Certified divers pay A$40 (US$32/UK£16) extra for two dives or A$55 (US$44/UK£22) extra for three, plus A$20 (US$16/UK£8) gear rental. Guides will accompany you, free of charge, to show you great locations. Introductory divers pay A$50 (US$40/UK£20) extra for one dive, and A$40 (US$32/UK£16) each for the second and third. The vessel carries no more than 48 passengers, less than half its capacity, and gets you to the Reef in just over an hour, giving you 5 hours on the coral. The boat departs Marina Mirage daily at 8:30am. Transfers from Cairns and the Northern Beaches cost an extra A$15 (US$12/UK[p]6) per adult and A$10 (US$8/UK£4) per child.

From Townsville -- Off Townsville, you can dive not only the Reef but also a wreck, the Yongala, which lies off the coast in 30m (98 ft.) of water with good visibility. Adrenalin Dive (tel. 07/4724 0600; www.adrenalindive.com.au) runs day trips in which you will do two dives on the Yongala. The cost is A$199 (US$159/UK£80), plus A$35 (US$28/UK£14) for gear hire and A$30 (US$24/UK£12) per dive for a guide if you have logged fewer than 15 dives.

From the Whitsundays -- In and around the Whitsunday Islands, you can visit the Outer Reef and explore the many excellent dive sites close to shore. H20 Sportz (tel. 07/4946 9888; www.h20sportz.com.au), based at Hamilton Island marina, runs day tours to Bait Reef, one of the best known locations on the Great Barrier Reef. Tours are limited to 30 passengers and leave at 9:30am, returning 5pm. That gives you 3 1/2 hours at the Reef, allowing plenty of time for lots of snorkeling or two dives. The cost is A$161 (US$129/UK£64) adults, A$81 (US$65/UK£32) kids aged 4 to 13. One child 13 years or under travels free when accompanied by two adults. The cost includes lunch, snacks, all snorkel equipment, and wet suit.

Diving Reminders -- Don't forget your "C" certification card. Bringing along your dive log is also a good idea. Remember not to fly for 24 hours after diving.

Dive Courses

Many dive companies in Queensland offer instruction, from initial open-water certification all the way to dive master, rescue diver, and instructor level. To take a course, you will need to have a medical exam done by a Queensland doctor. (Your dive school will arrange it; it costs about A$55/US$40/UK£20.) You will also need two passport photos for your certificate, and you must be able to swim! Courses usually begin every day or every week. Some courses take as little as 3 days, but 5 days is regarded as the best. Open-water certification usually requires 2 days of theory in a pool, followed by 2 or 3 days on the Reef, where you make four to nine dives. Prices vary, but are generally around A$600 (US$480/UK£240) for a 5-day open-water certification course, or A$500 (US$400/UK£200) for the same course over 4 nights.

Deep Sea Divers Den (tel. 07/4046 7333; fax 07/4031 1210; www.divers-den.com) has been in operation since 1974 and claims to have certified about 55,000 divers. The 5-day open-water course involves 2 days of theory in the pool in Cairns, and 3 days and 2 nights on a live-aboard boat. The course costs A$690 (US$552/UK£276) per person, including all meals on the boat, nine dives (one a guided night dive), all your gear, a wet suit, and transfers from your city hotel. The same course over 4 nights, with 1 night on the boat and five dives, costs A$555 (US$444/UK£222). New courses begin every day of the week.

Virtually every Great Barrier Reef dive operator offers dive courses. Most island resorts offer them, too. You will find dive schools in Cairns, Port Douglas, Mission Beach, Townsville, and the Whitsunday Islands.