Restaurants

Queenstown is filled with an ever-changing array of good cafes and restaurants. The Skyline Gondola Restaurant (tel. 03/441-0101) is as much an experience as a meal. Enjoy lavish lunch and evening buffets accompanied by spectacular views. A buffet dinner including gondola ride is NZ$67 (US$48/£24) and lunch is NZ$45 (US$32/£16). The restaurant is huge and tour groups are seated in a separate area. Bookings are essential.

Winning Wines -- Gantley's Restaurant, 172 Arthur's Point Rd., Arthur's Point (tel. 03/442-8999), has an extensive wine list with over 250 selections, showcasing some of the most outstanding wines produced in New Zealand. One of only a few New Zealand restaurants to win an Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine for "having one of the most outstanding restaurant wine lists in the world," Gantley's is favored for its romantic interior and superior wine selections. Main courses range from NZ$30 to NZ$40 (US$21-US$28/£11-£14), and they're open daily from 6pm; they offer courtesy transport from Queenstown.

Treasure Hunt -- Every city has them -- those luscious little culinary secrets that locals like to keep for themselves. I won't win friends in Queenstown for this, but I'm going to tell you about The Bunker, Cow Lane (tel. 03/441-8030; www.thebunker.co.nz). And don't think that just because I've given you the address, you're going to be able to find it easily. It hides behind a very unassuming door and just assumes that people who are hungry and passionate enough will find it. And once you do unearth it, you won't regret the hunt. It's a tiny restaurant with a huge reputation for classy haute cuisine, an intimate atmosphere, and an impressive collection of single malt whiskeys. Venison, lamb, scampi, quail, and duck all take their place on an innovative menu that will most definitely make a hole in your wallet. It's open from 5pm until 5am, by which time you'll probably be bankrupt but hugely satisfied.

Sofitel Eats -- You'll find an excellent cluster of independent restaurants in the Sofitel Hotel complex in Duke Street. My favorite is Chop Chop (tel. 03/442-6464), which gets top marks for delicious, cheap, fast turnaround Asian dishes and great noodles. The Indian restaurant Spicy Bites (tel. 03/409-0925) gets heaps of praise. Italian Fatz Cat (tel. 03/442-4643) is a longstanding favorite with good pizza and pasta. The Sofitel's own Vie Restaurant (tel. 03/450-0045) has a terrific degustation menu. And Bezu (tel. 03/409-2302) serves fabulous meals in a classy setting.

Market Treats -- The best place for delicious treats, picnic food, and fabulous tastes to take home is Mediterranean Market, 53 Robins Rd., Queenstown (tel. 03/442-4161; www.mediterranean.co.nz). Head out on Gorge Road, turn down the hill beside the supermarket, and then hard left into the lower carpark. It's home to Squisito Café and if you come out empty handed, I'll be surprised. Open Monday to Saturday 8am to 6:30pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm.

Raising Your Glass -- By far the most knowledgeable wine retailer in Queenstown is Johann Small-Smith of Wine Deli, 2 Shotover St., beside the Bead Shop (tel. 03/442-4482; www.winedeli.com). The store has a full range of Central Otago wines along with many from throughout New Zealand, and Johann knows all the rules and regulations involved in getting your wine home to the other side of the world. Don't overlook the selection of chocolates, cheeses, and salamis. Wine Deli is open daily 10am to 7pm (closed Dec 25). And once you're home Johann will e-mail you with news of your favorite wines.

In Nearby Arrowtown

For Chocolate Lovers -- Patagonia Chocolates, Lakeside, 50 Beach St., Queenstown (tel. 03/442-9066) and Courtyard Mall, 40-44 Buckingham St., Arrowtown (tel. 03/409-8584); www.patagoniachocolates.com), are must-stop/must-eat destinations. They're open daily from 8am to 10pm.

In Nearby Glenorchy

Glenorchy is a bit lean on dining options, but you won't starve. Glenorchy Hotel (tel. 03/442-9902) has a terrace cafe and restaurant with a la carte, stone grill, and bistro dining; and Glenorchy Café (tel. 03/442-9958) can fill the gaps with snacks and light meals in a casual atmosphere. Kinloch Lodge (tel. 03/442-4900) has the best menu, with the likes of Thai rare beef salad, mushroom and Parmesan risotto, or a large platter of local cheeses, meats, and breads.