New Town -- A host of simple restaurants are geared toward the backpacker crowd. For tasty Indian food, try either Chandani Tandoori (tel. 02/2221-053), on Juan León Mera 1312, between Avenida Colón and Luis Cordero, or Great India Restaurant (tel. 02/2238-269), on José Calama E4-54, between Juan León Mera and Avenida Amazonas. For pastas and pizzas, head to Le Arcate (tel. 02/2237-659), on Baquedano 358 and Juan León Mera.
Old Town -- Only a few years ago there wasn't a single good restaurant in Old Town. But things are changing fast as the area becomes a bit safer. If you do come at night, though, I suggest taking a taxi directly here and then asking the restaurant to call you a taxi for your ride back to your hotel. Strolling on the Plaza de la Independencia (Plaza Grande) after dark is relatively safe, and it's the only place in Old Town where people linger late into the evening -- but I don't recommend venturing into any of the side streets at night.
Two of the restaurants: Café Mosaico and PIM's Panecillo, are actually located a little bit outside and above the center of Old Town, but for practical purposes -- and for the views they provide of Old Town -- they are included here. A taxi to either of these restaurants from Old Town should not cost more than $3 (£1.65).
