Nightlife

From elegant opera performances to dirt-cheap all-you-can-drink bars, Quito offers a range of nocturnal activities for visitors and locals alike. The Mariscal sector, the hub for partying and dining out, has restaurants and "here today, gone tomorrow" pubs and clubs pumping out popular salsa and infectious reggaetón beats until daybreak. To find out what's going on in Quito while you're in town, pick up a copy of Quito Cultura (www.quitocultura.com), a monthly Spanish-language events guide that includes theater listings, concerts, and general cultural events.

In 2001, the city government issued a new law stating that all bars and clubs must close at midnight on weekdays and 2am on weekends. But this is only sporadically enforced, and many clubs have found ways around it, including declaring themselves private parties.

Warning: Remember that, at night, Quito can be quite dangerous, especially near the bars and clubs. Take a cab, even if it's only for a few blocks; bartenders can call a taxi for you. If you have a cellphone, dial tel. 02/2222-222 for a taxi 24 hours a day.

The Performing Arts

Quito has a relatively important performing-arts scene, and the majority of theaters are located in Old Town. Performances include traditional theater pieces, political satire, ballets, dance shows, classic opera, and comedies.

The National Symphony performs weekly in different venues around town, including some colonial churches; call tel. 02/2256-5733 for up-to-date information. Every Wednesday at 7:30pm, the Ballet Andino Humanizarte (tel. 02/2967-152) performs traditional Andean dances at the Fundación Cultural Humanizarte, on Leonidas Plaza N24-226 and Lizardo García. The Ballet Folkórico Nacional Jacchigua (tel. 02/2952-025; www.jacchiguaesecuador.com) performs traditional dances and songs on Wednesday and Friday nights at 7:30pm at the Teatro Aeropuerto. Tickets cost $12 to $14 (£6.60-£7.70), and are often easiest to buy through Metropolitan Touring (tel. 02/2988-200; www.metropolitan-touring.com) or through your hotel tour desk or concierge.

The newly restored Teatro Nacional Sucre (tel. 02/2572-823; www.teatrosucre.com), in Old Town's Plaza del Teatro Manabí N8-131, between Guayaquil and Flores, first opened its doors in 1867; it's Quito's most popular theater and offers a varied and exciting events program including contemporary theater, ballet, electronic-music performances, and opera. Free concerts and street shows put on by the theater frequently take place just outside, on the Plaza del Teatro. Despite being almost completely destroyed by a fire in 1999, the restored neoclassic Teatro Bolívar (tel. 02/2582-486; www.teatrobolivar.org), at Flores 421 and Junín, continues to host and produce a range of cultural events including theater, dance, music, and Latin American cinema.

Another important outlet for the performing arts is the Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana (tel. 02/2902-272; www.cce.org.ec). Founded in the 1940s by writer, politician, and diplomat Benjamin Carrión ("If we can't be a military or economic power, we can, instead, be a cultural power fed by our rich traditions"), the Casa offers an extensive repertoire of events including rock concerts, art exhibitions, and performances by the National Symphonic Orchestra. It also houses one of the city's most important museums, the Museo Nacional del Banco Central del Ecuador, which contains important archaeological artifacts, as well as an extensive collection of Ecuadorian traditional and contemporary artwork.

The newly constructed Teatro del CCI, at CCI Iñaquito, Avenida Amazonas and Nacionas Unidas (tel. 02/2921-308), which opened its doors in January 2006, is a fine example of a modern theater with the latest technology in sound and lighting, offering up a mix of contemporary dance, theater, and music.

Quito is becoming an ever-popular destination among international artists. Recent concerts have featured Shakira, electronic DJ Paul Van Dyke, and North American industrial-metal musicians Fear Factory. The majority of large blockbuster concerts are held at Coliseo Rumiñahui (Ladrón de Guevara and Toledo), Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana , the Plaza de Toros (tel. 02/2229-369; north of the intersection of Av. Amazonas and 10 de Agosto), or the much larger Estadio Olímpico Atahualpa (tel. 02/2247-510; 6 de Diciembre and Naciones Unidas). Check local papers for listings and ticket outlets.

For a more mellow vibe, check out the recently inaugurated Casa de la Música (tel. 02/2261-965), at Valderrama and Avenida Mariana de Jesús. It hosts traditional, folkloric, classical, and jazz concerts and recitals including performances by visiting international artists and orchestras.

Quito's cultural panorama changes quite dramatically during the first week of December when the Fiestas de Quito, celebrating the founding of the capital, transform the city into one huge party. Festivities include profoundly Spanish traditions such as bullfighting in the Plaza de Toros and flamenco dancing. Copious amounts of alcohol consumption accompany live music in chivas (open-air trucks with traditional bands carrying beer-swigging partygoers through the city streets); revelers rock out at important alternative music festival Quitofest, and the city comes to a standstill with never-ending street parades.

For the duration of August, Quito is also host to a popular arts festival offering a substantial list of art exhibitions, theater, and dance in cultural institutions all over the capital. Almost all performing-arts events are done in Spanish. Consult www.quitocultura.com for an extensive guide, or www.quito.com.ec, which has listings in English.

Live Music

Over the last few years, the live music scene has really started to evolve in Quito, and an increasing number of bars and clubs now have bands and musicians performing. The city's scene, popular with local musicians trying to gain a larger following, is varied and includes jazz, salsa, pop, rock, metal, and alternative among other musical styles.

Some live performances to watch out for are those by the jazz quartet Plaza Foch on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday at Coffee Tree (Plaza Foch and Reina Victoria), and the Latin jazz band Cabo Frío. A good place to look for jazz is the restaurant and bar El Pobre Diablo (tel. 02/2235-194), in La Floresta on Isabel La Católica E12-06 and Galavis. Other groups to watch out for at various venues are some of Ecuador's most influential bands on the South American rock-and-metal scene: Pulpo3, Muscaria, and Sal y Mileto. Also worth a mention are the psychedelic pop-electronic group Can Can and, for a truly Caribbean flavor, Hector Napolitano.

The Club, Music & Dance Scene

There is certainly no shortage of places to let loose on the dance floor in Quito. Most popular among Quiteños are salsa, electronic, and reggaetón rhythms. You'll be harder pressed to find a decent selection of rock, alternative, or jazz clubs.

Quiteños and visitors alike mainly flock to the Mariscal sector to check out the capital's nightlife. With a range of restaurants, bars, and clubs, Mariscal is certainly Quito's hottest party spot. The majority of clubs are located around the streets Calama, Mariscal Foch, and Reina Victoria, or a few blocks north around Pinta and Santa María. In addition to the places listed below, favorites among party-goers are Tijuana (tel. 02/2238-324), Reina Victoria and Santa María, a happening spot pumping out international dance and techno with a small cover charge; and Blooms (tel. 02/2600-324), Juan León Mera 1117 and Calama, a sweat-inducing and usually packed discothèque blasting typical South American party tunes; cover charge is usually around $7 (£3.85), which includes an open bar. Thursday night there's live Cuban music and dancing at La Bodeguita de Cuba (tel. 02/2542-476), Reina Victoria 1721 and La Pinta.

The Bar Scene

Catering to all tastes, Quito's bar scene is extensive, offering options ranging from British-style beer pubs to sophisticated wine bars, and just about everything in between. The majority of places are situated in the Mariscal district. The newly renovated Plaza Foch is generally targeted toward those in search of classier venues, while the majority of other bars, from funky cafes to laid-back bars, are located in and around the streets Calama, Reina Victoria, and Juan León Mera. With such a variety of bars and pubs in one area, the Mariscal is perfect for a pub crawl, although it can sometimes get a little dodgy after dark, so it's advisable not to go alone. Bars usually only charge a cover if there is live music or another type of special event. The line between a bar and a club in Quito is sometimes a little blurry. Many bars pump up the volume as the night goes on, converting themselves into happening party spots.

Plaza Foch: Ground Zero in Mariscal -- The heart and soul of Quito's nightlife, the Mariscal district, has been dubbed "Gringolandia" by those who flock to the area to drink and dance the night away with the city's tourists and resident foreigners. The newly renovated Plaza Foch (also known as the Plaza del Quinde) -- which during the last couple of years has been transformed from a seedy, run-down intersection to a pristine plaza -- is the area's star attraction. Its excellent selection of bars and international restaurants target visitors in search of more upscale nightspots. In addition to hitting the bars, clubs, and restaurants right on the plaza, you can use the plaza as a great starting place for a bar or club crawl through the rest of the Mariscal district. Plaza Foch frequently hosts free, open-air live shows including performances by rock bands, dance groups, percussion and jazz ensembles; one group to watch out for is up-and-coming Jazz quartet XXL, who generally play on Wednesday and Saturday at 7pm outside the Coffee Tree . With alfresco dining and tall heater lamps to keep the Quito nighttime chill at bay, the funky European-style Plaza Foch is especially packed on weekends, so arrive early to get a good outdoor seat. The following are a few of my favorite spots on the Plaza Foch, although the list is by no means exhaustive.

The Gay & Lesbian Scene -- Although 1998 saw important changes to the Constitution regarding the status of homosexuals in Ecuador, attitudes toward the gay and lesbian community still lag behind those of North America and Europe, partly owing to Ecuador's being a staunchly Catholic county. This is reflected in the fact that gay and lesbian nightlife is not particularly well publicized, although by no means nonexistent. Quito has a few homosexual hot spots, including those listed below. For a detailed lowdown and the latest happenings on Quito's gay and lesbian scene, check out www.quitogay.net or http://quito.queercity.info.

Cinemas

As with most cities, Quito has its fill of mainstream cinemas as well as one or two alternative picture houses. Hollywood blockbusters, usually in their original English with Spanish subtitles, are most popular among moviegoers, along with Latin American cinema mainly consisting of Argentinean, Chilean, and Mexican productions. Two multiplex cinemas, Multicines, Av. Amazonas and Naciones Unidas, inside the CCI shopping mall (tel. 02/2259-677; www.multicines.com.ec), and Cinemark, Avenida de la República and América (tel. 02/2260-301; www.cinemark.com), are your best bet for new releases. Both have around seven or eight screens. If alternative cinema is more your cup of tea, check out the excellent Ocho y Medio, Valladolid N24-353 and Viscaya, near La Floresta (tel. 02/2904-720), Quito's only independent picture-house showing cine arte, classics, Latin American cinema, foreign films, and musical and dance productions. It also hosts the Eurocine film festival every May. Ocho y Medio also publishes the country's most extensive self-titled cinema guide, free of charge every month.

Casinos

Gambling is legal in Ecuador and the majority of casinos operate a free entrance, free-of-charge drink policy. The city's most popular casinos are Hotel Casino Plaza Caicedo, Av. Shyris 1757 and Amazonas (tel. 02/2445-305), with 176 slots and 25 table games, and Hotel Casino Hilton Colón Quito, Avenida Patria and Amazonas (tel. 02/2501-919), with 91 slots and 12 table games.