Getting Around

If You Want a Guide -- If you'd like ultra-personalized service, an English-speaking guide, a private car, or even a bodyguard or two to accompany you while you visit the city or the highlands, contact Turisvision, Ultimas Noticias N37-97 and El Espectador, Quito (tel. 02/2246-756; fax 02/224-5741; www.turisvision.com). They will take care of you from the moment you arrive to the moment you depart.

By Taxi

The streets of Quito swarm with yellow taxis, and they're my preferred means of transport here. Taxis are cheap, costing only $1 to $3 (55p-£1.65) for a ride within the Old or New Town and $4 to $6 (£2.20-£3.30) for longer distances. Drivers are required by law to use a meter, but it's obviously not a strict law because few taxis use them. If the taxi has a meter, insist that the driver use it. Alternatively, ask your hotel desk or a trusty local what your ride should cost and negotiate an appropriate price beforehand. Quito can be dangerous at night, so it's best to take a taxi wherever you go, no matter how short the distance. The staff at most restaurants, hotels, and bars will be happy to call a cab for you. In case you need to call one yourself, try Taxi Amigo (tel. 02/2222-222) or Taxi Jotajota (tel. 02/2639-639).

By Trolley

Three electric trolley lines wind their way through Quito, running north-south, and connecting Old Town with New Town. In New Town, the Trole runs along Avenida 10 de Agosto, which is a few blocks west of Avenida Amazonas. When it reaches Old Town, it travels along Avenida Guayaquil. To reach Plaza de la Independencia, be sure to get off at the Plaza Grande stop. The Ecovía is much more convenient if you want to start your journey in New Town; it runs along Avenida 6 de Diciembre, which is one of the major streets. Unfortunately, when it reaches Old Town, it stops several blocks east of the colonial core, and it's a bit of an uphill hike to the heart of the action. If you want to avoid this hike, transfer to the Trole at the Simón Bolívar stop. Metrobus is the newest line and it runs along the western edge of town, along Avenida América. All three of these trolley lines cost 25¢ (15p) for a one-way trip. The turnstiles accept only exact change, but fortunately all stations have change machines. Trolleys run from around 5am until midnight.

Warning: Pickpockets frequently operate on crowded trolleys and buses, so be careful.

By Bus

Quito has an extensive and very complicated system of city buses. In New Town, buses run along Avenida Amazonas and Avenida 12 de Octubre. If you're only going a short distance along these streets, it's easy to hop on a bus (just flag it down). But beware: Once you pass Avenida Colón, the buses go off in many convoluted directions. Short rides cost 25¢ (15p). Overall, it's much easier to travel through Quito by taxi, which is relatively inexpensive and safe, and will take you exactly where you need to go.

On Foot

Aside from walking around specific and compact neighborhoods or circuits, like Old Town or the Mariscal section of New Town, Quito is not a friendly city for walkers. Most of the streets are in a state of near-constant gridlock; sidewalks are narrow and irregular; and car and bus fumes, along with street crime, are real problems. Luckily, taxis are plentiful and very inexpensive .

By Car

I highly discourage you from renting a car to get around Quito. Navigating a strange city is difficult as it is, and many of Quito's streets are narrow and in a nearly constant state of gridlock. Moreover, taxis are plentiful and inexpensive.

If you're set on renting a car in Quito, Avis (tel. 02/2440-270; www.avis.com.ec), Budget (tel. 02/3300-979; www.budget-ec.com), Hertz (tel. 1800/227-767 toll-free within Ecuador, or 02/2254-257; www.hertz.com.ec), and Localiza (tel. 02/3303-265; www1.localiza.com.ec) all have offices at the Mariscal Sucre International Airport, as well as downtown, and can deliver a car to most hotels in Quito. Car rentals will run you $20 to $90 (£11-£50) per day, depending upon the type of vehicle.