Planning a Trip

Rajasthan has so much to see, with long travel distances between top sites, that a trip here requires careful planning (particularly if you hire a car and driver, which is the best way to tour the state). The following overview can help you plan your itinerary.

The three biggest cities in Rajasthan, all with airports, are Jaipur, the "Pink City"; Jodhpur, the "Blue City"; and Udaipur, the "White City." All are worthwhile destinations, not least because they offer easy access to great excursions. The tiny Jaisalmer, or "Golden City," is the most awkward to reach, and while some find it the highlight of their Rajasthan trip, others feel it isn't worth the schlep it takes to get there.

For most, the entry point is the state capital of Jaipur, near the eastern border, which is the third point (the others being nearby Delhi and Agra) of the much-traveled Golden Triangle. Should you choose to start your trip here, you are in fact well positioned to visit some of Rajasthan's top sites: Only a few hours from the city is Ranthambhore National Park -- where you have good chances of spotting a wild tiger--and Bharatpur's Keoladeo National Park, a must-see for birders, and literally on the way from Agra. Jaipur is also within driving distance of Bundi, an untouched, off-the-beaten-track rural town that lies some hours away by train or car, as well as nearby Ajmer, gateway to the sacred lake of Pushkar, site of the world's most famous camel fair.

Other than its proximity to these sites, however, as well as the excellent rail and flight connections to the rest of India, the only good reason to dally in Jaipur itself is to indulge in some retail therapy. Most visitors planning to travel farther by car circle Rajasthan in a counterclockwise direction, starting off in Jaipur and traveling the rather circuitous route west to Jodhpur (with a sojourn in Pushkar -- a highly recommended option, particularly for younger travelers); then, from Jodhpur, you make the 5 1/2- to 6-hour drive west to Jaisalmer for a few nights before you return to Jodhpur. An alternative route to Jaisalmer, which means you don't have to travel both to and from Jodhpur, is to travel from Delhi through the Shekhawati region to Bikaner, known for the nearby Temple of the Rats, and from there on to Jaisalmer, before you travel east again to Jodhpur. (The other alternative is to skip Jaisalmer altogether, and if you're short on time this is what you may have to do, but we think it's a must-see city.) From Jodhpur you then travel south to Udaipur and, finally, head back north to Jaipur, stopping en route at one of many lovely palace hotels (or at Amanbagh) for a most relaxing end to your journey.

For someone with limited time (say, only enough to visit one of Rajasthan's cities), it's far better to fly direct to Udaipur -- with great lodging options in all price brackets, this is arguably Rajasthan's most attractive city (though you should check the status of the lakes, which have gone dry for an entire season in recent years, before planning your entire trip around it). From Udaipur you can take a wonderful (but long) day trip to Kumbhalgarh Reserve to take in Ranakpur's exquisitely carved Jain temples and impressive Kumbhalgarh Fort before overnighting at Devi Garh, one of India's top hotels. Alternatively, you can head east from Udaipur to Bundi, via the historic fort of Chittaurgarh, and then move on to Ranthambhore National Park. Or take the short trip directly south to the relatively undiscovered palaces of Dungarpur, or head much further out west to Mount Abu, the state's only hill station and sacred pilgrimage of the Jains, who come to visit the famous Dilwara Temples. Jodhpur and its majestic Mehrangarh Fort lie only 5 hours north of Udaipur by road, and you can break up the trip by overnighting at one of the recommended heritage properties along the way.

As mentioned, the state's other must-see city is Jaisalmer, which is rather inconveniently situated on the far-flung western outreaches of Rajasthan's Thar Desert; of course, its remote setting is greatly responsible for its desirability as a destination. To get there, you have to either set off from Jodhpur, or travel via the desert town of Bikaner -- both routes involve a lot of driving (Jodhpur is a 5 1/2- to 6-hr. drive away; Bikaner a 6- to 7-hr. drive). You can opt to travel from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer by overnight train, but make sure to get a berth in the air-conditioned compartment of the Delhi-Jaisalmer Express (even though the desert nights can be bitterly cold, this is your best option until Jaisalmer's airport arrives) and carry a warm blanket.

You can fly between Rajasthan's major cities and hire a vehicle and driver from one of the recommended operators for the duration of your stay in each region, but the long-term hire of a car and driver is highly recommended -- this is really the best way to tour Rajasthan because it means you can travel at your own pace, avoid public transport (or the daily grind of haggling with taxis), and get right off the beaten track. That said, Rajasthan's potholed roads make for slow going, drivers have unknown rules (but clearly the big trucks and cows rule, no matter what the circumstances), and traveling by night is only for the suicidal -- even day trips will have you closing your eyes in supplication to some higher being.

Many operators are not keen to provide a breakdown of pricing, leaving you with the distinct feeling that you are being ripped off. To avoid this, get a per-kilometer rate for the specific kind of car you wish to hire, and the overnight supplement for the driver. Establish a ballpark per-kilometer rate from the RTDC Transport Unit -- their rates are usually slightly higher than those offered by private operators, so it's worth going there first for a quote. The RTDC in Jaipur owns a number of vehicles or will contract out specific requests for vehicles; call them at tel. 0141/220-0778 (or write to cro@rajasthantourism.gov.in or rtdcpr@sancharnet.in). At press time, an air-conditioned car and driver in Jaipur cost about Rs 1,200 ($29/£15) for a full day (8 hr.), up to 80km (50 miles), plus a negotiated fee for every hour after that. For out-of-town trips, expect to pay Rs 7.50 to Rs 10 (20¢-25¢/10p-15p) per kilometer plus Rs 200 ($4.90/£2.50) per night out. A romantic way to go is in an air-conditioned Ambassador, India's quaint homegrown brand of sedans, which provides you with a real sense of being in another world, not to mention another era. They're also pretty hardy. The best organized travel company in Rajasthan is Rajasthan Tours (www.rajasthantouronline.com), which has branches in each of the main cities; rates are somewhat pricier than you'll find elsewhere, but they're fixed, so there's no bargaining, and service is of an excellent standard. If you'd prefer to support an entrepreneurial independent driver, contact Hari Ram Choudhary (tel. 94-1444-2618; around Rs 2,000/$49/£25 per day in Rajasthan), who owns a Toyota Qualis, speaks good English, and knows his way around the state (he's been driving travelers since 1984); you might want to book him well in advance of your trip by e-mailing his friend at anilsharma.jaipur@gmail.com.

Note: At press time, tax on Rajasthan hotel accommodation varied between 8% and 10% (depending on the city), although this does not apply to economy rooms; sales tax of 12.5% is charged on dining bills.

Your Carriage Awaits . . . -- The most hassle-free way to experience Rajasthan is by train, and by this we're in no way suggesting that you slum it with the rest of the country's commuters. Instead, consider spending your nights aboard the famous Palace on Wheels (www.palaceonwheels.net). The drawback of train packages (or any package tour, for that matter) is a relative lack of autonomy and independence; virtually everything is prearranged and you do feel like you're part of a group, or herd, jostling from one significant attraction to the next. But if you want to save time and energy and forgo daily haggling and making key choices -- like where to stay, eat, and shop -- training through the state is ideal.