Rarotonga is blessed with too many accommodations for me to list them all here, I regret to say. Since most of us desire to stay on the beach during our vacations, I have primarily confined my recommendations to waterfront locations.
I have organized the accommodations in accordance with Rarotonga's three hotel districts: Muri Beach, on the southeast coast; Titikaveka, on the south coast; and the west coast. Marvelous Muri Beach and its shallow lagoon have more activities than the others. Titikaveka also has a great beach, and its lagoon is the deepest and best for snorkeling on Rarotonga. The prevailing southeast trade winds, however, can make both areas chilly during the austral winter months of June through August. By the same token, these same winds provide nature's air-conditioning during the warmer summer months. You get glorious sunsets on the west coast, which the mountains shield from the prevailing trade winds, thus making the west somewhat drier than Muri Beach. The lagoon off the west coast tends to be very shallow, especially at low tide.
The Little Polynesian (tel. 24-280; www.littlepolynesian.com) was undergoing a massive renovation during my recent visit. Check progress on the website, because the "Little Poly" sits in a coconut grove beside Rarotonga's most picturesque beach and next to the deepest waters of Titikaveka Lagoon.
Renting a Beach House -- With so many residents deserting the Cook Islands for New Zealand in recent years, a multitude of houses are now for rent, ranging from simple bungalows to deluxe villas. Many of the hotels I recommend consist entirely of "self-contained" (that is, with kitchens) bungalows, or they have beach houses in their inventories. If you want a place all to yourself, contact Ocean Side Villa (tel./fax 28-776; hwong@oyster.net.ck) or Rarotonga Realty (tel. 26-664; fax 26-665; www.rarorealty.co.ck).
