Most locals spend their nights sipping an aperitivo -- or nibbling on sweets -- at one of the town's cafes. The activity can take on a theatrical air when the weather is nice and people-watching is at its prime. At the Bar Calce (Via Roma 2, next to the Duomo; tel. 089-857152), people gather for the excellent pastries and homemade ice cream. Caffè Domingo (Piazza Duomo; tel. 089-857142) has been run by the same family since 1929 and is famous for its babà (sponge cake) and dolcezze al limone (traditional lemon pastries).
