Here, as in Chania and Iraklion, you may be overwhelmed by the sheer number of gift shops offering mostly souvenirs. Looking for something different? Try Nikolaos Papalasakis's Palaiopoleiou, 40 Souliou, which is crammed with some genuine antiques, old textiles, jewelry, and curiosities such as the stringed instruments made by the proprietor. At Olive Tree Wood, 35 Arabatzoglou, the name says it all -- the store carries bowls, containers, and implements carved from olive wood. Evangeline, 36 Paleologlou, has a good selection of textiles, while Haroula Spridaki, 36 Souliou, has a nice selection of Cretan embroidery. Talisman, 32 Arabatzoglou, sells an interesting selection of blown glass, ceramics, plaques, paintings, and other handmade articles. And the AVLI Hotel's Raki Baraki, at 22 Xanthoudidou, has a large and varied selection of natural products from all over Greece.

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