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The Old Town -- Accommodations in the Old Town have an atmosphere of ages past, but character does not always equal charm. There are few attractive options here, and they are in considerable demand. One is that some hosts will hold you to the letter of your intent -- so if you need or wish to cancel a day or more of your stay, they will do their best to extract every last cent. And there is some hedging, which means that the exact room agreed upon may be "unavailable" at the end of the day. Be explicit and keep a paper trail. And if any of this unsettles you, try booking a hotel through an agency such as Triton Holidays, which will go to bat for you in case of any problems.

The New Town & Environs -- Unlike the Old Town, the New Town doesn't prohibit new construction. You'll find a wild array of options, from boardinghouses to package-tour hotels to luxury resorts. Some are dazzling -- take a look at the Rodos Palace, on the west-coast road running out of town, if your taste runs that way -- but many are dull and indistinguishable. I've included a selection of those in different price ranges that stand out.

Lindos & Environs

In high season, Lindos marks the spot where up to 10,000 day-trippers from Rhodes city converge with 4,000 resident tourists. As hotel construction is no longer permitted, almost all of the old homes have been converted into pensions (called "villas," in the brochures), by English charter companies. Triton Holidays (www.tritondmc.gr; tel. 22410/21-690) books six-person villas, including kitchen facilities (reservations are often made a year in advance). In peak season, the local Tourist Information Kiosk (tel. 22440/31-900; fax 22440/31-288) has a list of homes that rent rooms. Plan to pay at least 60€ for a double and 90€ to 125€ for a studio apartment.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.