Active Pursuits

Despite its claim as the windsurfing capital of the Caribbean, there are very definite dangers in the waters off Rincón. In November 1998 three surfers (two from San Juan, one from the U.S. mainland) drowned in unrelated incidents offshore at Maria's Beach. These deaths are often cited as evidence of the dangerous surf that has misled some very experienced surfers. Local watersports experts urge anyone who's considering surfing at Rincón to ask a well-informed local for advice. When the surf is up and undertows and riptides are particularly strong, losing a surfboard while far offshore seems to be one of the first steps to eventually losing your life.

Windsurfing is best from November to April. The best beaches for surfing lie from Borinquén Point south to Rincón. There are many surfing outfitters along this strip, the best of which is West Coast Surf Shop, 2 E. Muñoz Rivera at Rincón (tel. 787/823-3935), open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm. A local surfing star, Darren Muschett, is the resident instructor here. Rates for lessons vary, but the outlet rents both long and short boards, charging $20 for 24 hours. The Hot Wavz Surf Shop, Maria's Beach (tel. 787/823-3942), also rents long boards, as well as boogie boards, for $15 per day. Some local surfers hang out here, giving lessons that begin at $20 per hour.

The windsurfers who hang out here like Sandy Beach because it does not have the stone and rocks found on some of the other beaches in the area. Also, from December to February it gets almost constant winds every day. Windsurfers wait on the terrace of Tamboo Tavern for the right wind conditions before hitting the beach.

West Coast Charters, located in the Marina at Rincón (tel. 787/823-4114), offers a number of options for fun in the water, ranging from whale-watching (Dec-Mar) and other fun cruises to renting diving or fishing equipment. Expeditions are arranged to Desecho Island Reef, one of the best reefs in the Caribbean for snorkeling and diving. Desecho Island is an uninhabited island 14 miles (22km) offshore. A Federal Wildlife Preserve, it consists of 360 acres (144 hectares). The highest point rises 715 feet (215m). West Coast Charters also attracts sports fishermen in search of tuna, grouper, marlin, wahoo, and dolphin (the fish, not the mammal). Fishermen are taken out for a half-day aboard a fully equipped boat, with a licensed and experienced charter captain. A snorkeling trip costs $35, a one-tank scuba dive $85. A half-day fishing charter is $450 per boat, including the guide.

Oceans Unlimited, Highway 115, km 12.2, Rincón (tel. 787/823-2340), is a dive charter operation servicing the entire west coast of Puerto Rico. It offers scuba diving and snorkeling charters to Desecho Island and Mona Island in a 48-foot (14.4m) vessel. All-inclusive camping and diving charters to Mona Island are offered, along with dive instruction, whale-watching, winter-sunset cruises, and fishing charters.

Another good scuba outfitter is Taíno Divers, Black Eagle Marina at Rincón (tel. 787/823-6429), which offers local boat charters along with scuba and snorkeling trips. Other activities include kite-boarding, whale-watching expeditions and sunset cruises. Fees are $95 for a two-tank dive, $625 for a half-day fishing-boat rental, and $45 for snorkeling.

The most visible and sought-after whale-watching panorama in Rincón is Parque El Faro de Rincón (Rincón's Lighthouse Park), which lies on El Faro Point peninsula at the extreme western tip of town. Within its fenced-in perimeter are pavilions that sell souvenirs and snack items, rows of binoculars offering 25¢ views, and a stately looking lighthouse built in 1921. The park is at its most popular from December to March for whale-watching and in January and February for surfer gazing. The park is locked every evening between midnight and 7am. Otherwise, you're free to promenade with the locals any time you like.

The park's snack bar is called Restaurant El Faro, Barrio Puntas, Carretera 413, km 3.3 (no phone). Platters of American and Puerto Rican food, including mofongos, steaks, and burgers, cost from $13 to $19. When is it open? The owner told us, "I open whenever I want to. If I don't want to, I stay home."

Punta Borinquén Golf Club, Route 107 (tel. 787/890-2987), 2 miles (3.2km) north of Aquadilla's center, across the highway from the city's airport, was originally built by the U.S. government as part of Ramey Air Force Base. Today, it is a public 18-hole golf course, open daily from 7am to 6:30pm. Greens fees are $20 per round; a golf cart that can carry two passengers rents for $30 for 18 holes. A set of clubs can be rented for $10. The clubhouse has a bar and a simple restaurant.