Active Pursuits

There are 8 miles (13km) of beachfront in Rincón, and each little spot seems to have its own name: Maria's, Indicator, Domes, The Point, Steps-Tres Palmas, Dog Man's. The reasons behind the names are also varied. One stems from the hulk of an abandoned nuclear power plant just off the beach, another for an old man who lived nearby.

Part of the town's appeal is that it has both rough surfing beaches and tranquil Caribbean coastal areas. Along the north side of Rincón, the Atlantic coast gets large, powerful waves, while other beaches are tranquil, perfect for snorkeling. Yet many beaches provide both, depending on the time of year.

During winter, uninterrupted swells from the North Atlantic form perfect waves, averaging 5 to 6 feet (1.5-1.8m) in height, with rideable rollers sometimes reaching 15 to 20 feet (4.6-6.1m). In 2008, a rare winter storm created 25-foot to 30-foot (7.6-9.1m) waves here that had local surfers musing whether it was the biggest surf ever here. On the southern side of Rincón, the ocean is calm, and long, wide sand beaches unfold with swaying palm trees along them.

The best surfing beaches include Las Maria's, Spanish Wall, and Domes near the town lighthouse on the north side. Córcega is probably the best of the Caribbean beaches.

Some beaches, meanwhile, can show different faces at different times of the year. For instance, Steps, which is also named Tres Palmas, is a great surfing beach in winter, but in summer is calm and one of the best spots for snorkeling. It was recently named a natural marine reserve.

Visitors need to proceed with caution during winter when venturing into the surf off Rincón, which can be particularly strong, with powerful riptides and undertows that routinely cause drownings. This should not stop visitors from coming here, however. The town has beaches with both tranquil and strong surf. Just proceed with caution and ask locals about surf conditions.

Windsurfing, and increasingly kite-boarding, is also extremely popular here, with Sandy Beach a favored site because it does not have the rocks found on the ocean floor that some of the other beaches in the area have. Also, from December to February it gets almost constant winds every day. Windsurfers wait on the terrace of Tamboo Tavern for the right wind conditions before hitting the beach.

Excellent scuba, snorkeling, parasailing, and sailing are also available in Rincón, making it one of the most active of Caribbean destinations.

Endangered humpback whales winter here, attracting a growing number of whale-watchers from December to March. The lighthouse at El Faro Park is a great place to spot these mammoth mammals.

Rincón remains a mecca for surfing aficionados, but it's also a great place to learn the sport. The Rincón Surf School (P.O. Box 1333, Rincón; tel. 787/823-0610) offers beginners lessons or can teach surfers how to improve their performance. One lesson costs $95, and there are also 2-day ($180), 3-day ($260), and 5-day ($390) packages. A private 2-hour lesson is $150, $75 each for two people. The school also arranges surf vacation packages in conjunction with the Casa Verde Guesthouse. Puntas Surf School (P.O. Box 4319, HC-01 Calle Vista del Mar; tel. 787/823-3618 or 207/251-1154) is another great option. It's run by Melissa Taylor and Bill Woodward, whose love of the sport is infectious, and they say they can teach would-be surfers of any age, from 5 to 105. Private lessons cost $40 per hour, $60 for 2 hours. Group rates and package deals are also available. A professional photographer takes photos of lessons for sale.

There are many surfing outfitters in town, and one of the most established is the West Coast Surf Shop, Muñoz Rivera 2E, Rincón (tel. 787/823-3935), open daily 9am to 6pm. The shop rents surfing equipment and gives lessons. The Hot Wavz Surf Shop, Maria's Beach (tel. 787/823-3942), also rents long boards, as well as boogie boards. Prices for board rentals start at around $25 daily. Snorkeling gear can also be rented at these shops.

Good snorkeling can be found just off the beach. When conditions are right, Tres Palmas-Steps is a great spot. Scuba divers and snorkeling enthusiasts will also want to head out to Desecheo Island, the large mass of land seen offshore from Rincón looking west. A quick half-hour boat trip, the small island is a nature reserve with great coral formations and large reef fish. Visibility is 100 feet plus (30m) and average water temperature is between 80° and 86°F (27°-30°C).

A good scuba outfitter is Taíno Divers, Black Eagle Marina at Rincón (tel. 787/823-6429), which offers local boat charters along with scuba and snorkeling trips. The Desecheo day trip departs at 8am and returns at 2pm. Snorkeling costs $75 while a 2-tank dive is $109. Prices include gourmet sandwiches and drinks. The outfit also runs half-day fishing charters for $725 and whale-watching expeditions and sunset cruises for $35.

Makaira Fishing Charters (P.O. Box 257, Rincón; tel. 787/823-4391 or 787/299-7374) offers fishing charters from a no-frills, tournament-rigged, 35-foot 2006 Contender that fits six comfortably. Half-day rates are $575 and full-day $850. Moondog Charters (tel. 787/823-3059) also runs fishing excursions and dive charters aboard a 32-foot Albermarle Express Sport Fisherman.

Katarina Sail Charters (tel. 787/823-SAIL [7245]) gives daily sailing trips aboard a 32-foot catamaran. The day sail (from around 10:20am-2:30pm) consists of some fine cruising, a stop for a swim and snorkel, and then lunch. It costs $60, $30 for children under 12. The sunset sail leaves at 4:30 and returns after sunset about 2 hours later. Watching the western sunset while sailing and listening to great music is wonderful, with rum punch, beer, and non-alcoholic drinks.

The most visible and sought-after whale-watching panorama in Rincón is Parque El Faro de Rincón (Rincón Lighthouse Park), which lies on El Faro Point peninsula at the extreme western tip of town. Within its fenced-in perimeter are pavilions that sell souvenirs and snack items, rows of binoculars offering 25¢ views, and a stately looking lighthouse built in 1921. The park is at its most popular from December to March for whale-watching and in January and February for surfer gazing. The park is locked every evening between midnight and 7am. Otherwise, you're free to promenade with the locals any time you like.

The park's snack bar is called Restaurant El Faro, Barrio Puntas, Carretera 413 Km 3.3 (no phone), which serves basic Puerto Rican fare and burgers. Best for a drink or ice cream. When is it open? The owner told us, "I open whenever I want to. If I don't want to, I stay home."