Nightlife

Join the surfers for a "sundowner" at Calypso's Tropical Bar, Maria's Beach (tel. 787/823-1626), which lies on the road to the lighthouse. Locals gather to watch the sunset in the outdoor courtyard. Happy-hour specials are daily 5 to 7pm. Live music takes place Friday and Saturday nights, and the bar is open daily from 11am until the last customer leaves (usually long after midnight). The Calypso Café has grilled seafood and pub fare. If you decide to eat something here, go for the grilled seafood, with main courses costing from $4 to $12.

One of the best simpático bars is Rock Bottom, adjoining Casa Verde Guest House along Sandy Beach Road (tel. 787/823-3756). It serves burgers and other stateside food. The upstairs surfer bar is decorated with dozens of graffitized surf boards and has a tree house feel to it. Great piña coladas and daily drink specials. The bar is open until midnight, at least. Wednesdays are acoustic jam nights, and Sundays are dedicated to movies and surf videos.

A young crowd gathers at Tamboo Tavern (tel. 787/823-8550), another surfer's bar in a tropical dream location right on Sandy Beach. The action percolates throughout the day, and really takes off as the sun begins to set. Watch it from the terrace or sit at the bar inside tapping your feet to rock en español and progressive American music. There's live music most weekend nights. The Rum Shack (tel. 787/823-0101) is a good place to rub shoulders with local ex-pats and a diverse group of travelers. Don't miss the full-moon party or reggae nights if one is occurring while you are in town. There's also a weekly movie night.