Hotels

Though Rio boasts a number of hotels, there's surprisingly little variety: there are few pousadas or fancy bed-and-breakfasts, not even many heritage buildings. The vast majority of hotels are in modern high-rises, many built in the '60s and '70s, most with a similar layout and design. The difference between hotels thus lies in the location, the room size, the amenities, and, of course, the view. The best rooms always face the ocean and are priced accordingly. Note that if you choose not to stay in a prime oceanview room, you often get much better value by staying at the best room in a less expensive hotel away from the beach than by paying for a cheaper room in an expensive beachfront hotel.

The best-known hotel area is Copacabana, with easy access via Metrô back to the city core, and a good selection of inexpensive hotels close to the beach. One beach over from Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon have become increasingly popular over the past decade and now boast better nightlife and trendier shopping than Copa. The only real disadvantage to staying here is the lack of a subway line, but there are lots and lots of buses.

Farther out in Barra da Tijuca is where you will find the city's newest and most modern hotels. Hotels out here are close to the convention center and the 2007 Pan-American Games site, but it's a 30-to-60-minute cab ride from Ipanema and Copacabana and the people and street life that make Rio so fascinating.

Back towards downtown you find the lively and more historic neighborhoods Glória, Catete, and Flamengo. Located a 15-minute subway ride from both downtown and Copacabana, they offer excellent budget options as well as luxury accommodations rivaling The Copacabana Palace but at a much better price.

In the lobby, hotels always list the rack rates on a sign behind the desk, but you can expect to pay 50% to 80% of this amount, depending on the season, the staff person, and your bargaining skills. Prices are quite flexible; always negotiate. Sometimes just paying with cash can result in a 10% to 15% discount.

The only time of year when it's difficult to get a deal is during high season, from the week before Christmas through the end of Carnaval. The city overflows with visitors from all over the world, not to mention Argentineans and Brazilians taking their summer holidays. New Year's and Carnaval are the tourism industry's cash cows, and during this time most hotels will only accept reservations for set package deals -- usually a 2- or 3-night minimum stay for New Year's and a 5-night minimum stay for Carnaval -- at highly inflated prices. Shop around in advance if you're going to be in Rio during these times; packages (especially the less expensive ones) sell out by October or November. Most hotels now have websites and will provide quick information upon request.

Make sure to ask about taxes that will be added to your bill. Most hotels charge a 10% service tax, a 5% city tax, and, if they are a member of the Rio Convention and Visitor's Bureau, a tourist tax of R$3 to R$9 (US$1.25-US$3.75) per day.

Breakfast (café de manha) at Brazilian hotels is almost always included in the room price and at most places includes a nice buffet-style spread including bread, meats, cheeses, fruits, eggs (sometimes), and café com leite, strong coffee served with hot milk. In recent years a few of the more expensive hotels have taken to charging for café de manha; if this is the case it's noted in the review.

Where Not to Stay in Rio -- The only neighborhood to avoid hotel-wise is downtown Rio. The Praça Mauá hotels may look like a bargain, but this area transforms into a red-light district at night when the office workers have gone home.

Know About the Beach Entrance -- Maybe it's to keep sand from tracking in the lobby, or maybe it's to avoid having the Speedo-clad squeezing into an elevator full of suits. For whatever reason, many beachfront hotels have a separate entrance and elevator for those going to the beach. Normally marked ENTRADA DE BANHISTAS or ENTRADA DE SERVIÇO, these elevators lead to the hotel service entrance where -- as a bonus for following the local etiquette -- you can pick up a beach towel, chair, and umbrella. Returning from the beach you enter the same side entrance and drop the stuff off again.

São Conrado/Barrada Tijuca

The only reason to stay beyond Leblon is if you prefer your hotel with a large leisure area such as tennis courts and large swimming pools. Close to the convention center and the site of the 2007 Pan-American Games, hotels in Barra usually have huge recreational areas. The drawback is that you're anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour or more from Ipanema and Copacabana (depending on traffic) and thus quite isolated from the people and street life that make Rio do fascinating. If you do choose Barra, resign yourself to long cab or bus rides.

Ipanema/Leblon

One beach over from Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon have become increasingly popular over the past decade and now boast better nightlife and trendier shopping than Copa. Leblon, in particular, is fast becoming Rio's prime neighborhood for fine dining. There are both affordable hotel options and outstanding luxury accommodations. The only drawback? It's a bit far from downtown, and lacks a subway connection. The bus ride into Centro is normally about 40 minutes, but during weekday rush hours it can take up to an hour.

Copacabana

Copacabana may not be the upscale neighborhood that it once was but there are still advantages to staying in this part of the city. Prices are lower than in Ipanema and you will find all the services a tourist is likely to need. Also, Copacabana is strategically located; it's only a 10 to 15-minute cab ride to Ipanema or to downtown, and there's excellent bus service and a Metrô line, which makes it easy and convenient to get downtown or to places farther out, such as the Sambódromo or the Maracanã soccer stadium.

The best hotels are on the Avenida Atlântica and some of its cross streets. Avoid the hectic Nossa Senhora de Copacabana Avenue and Rua Barata Ribeiro.

The drawback to Copacabana is that you share the hood with seniors, lots and lots of other tourists, vendors, hawkers, hustlers and, in certain sections, street hookers and (mostly foreign) johns (it's particularly bad around Av. Prado Junior and in front of the Help discotheque). With some common precautions the neighborhood is just as safe as Ipanema, but you do get that extra local flavor. We find it quite colorful and a part of what makes Copa unique. However, it may not be for everybody. Leme, at the far end of Copa, could be the perfect alternative for those who want to have all the benefits of being close to Copa without sinking in the midst of it.

Flamengo, Catete & Glória

These older neighborhoods just south of downtown offer a range of excellent accommodations. Staying here will allow you to experience the real Rio, where tourists are a minority. These neighborhoods are also architecturally very interesting and offer many glimpses into Rio's fascinating history. The chief drawback to the area is its distance from the ocean beaches.

Santa Teresa Bed & Breakfast Network

Quite a change from most of Rio de Janeiro's high-rise accommodations, the Santa Teresa Cama e Café B&B network (tel. 021/2224-5689 or 021/2221-7635; www.camaecafe.com.br) offers spectacular rooms in one of the city's most charming neighborhoods. The participating homes are often quite spectacular and situated in some of Santa Teresa's finest locations. The staff does a great job matching you according to your price preference, language skills, and interests. Hosts include a variety of resident artists and chefs, as well as people who have an interest in Brazilian music, art, and history. Houses range from century-old mansions to Art Deco villas to spacious apartments with fab views. Prices range from R$70 to R$160 (US$29-US$67), depending on the luxuriousness of your digs. But for only R$120 (US$50) you can book yourself into a fabulous house with great views, swimming pool and garden. The drawback to Santa Teresa is its relative isolation. In the evening you need to rely on taxis to get around. However, in the daytime you can grab a bus and be at the Metrô or downtown in 20 minutes. Santa Teresa in itself is worth a day or two of exploration. It's a perfect retreat, away from the beach.