Shirley

This hole-in-the-wall Spanish seafood restaurant has been packing them in for years. The restaurant is small, the tables close together, and the older waiters quaint, though not exactly perky, and the food is definitely worth the trip. When you finally nab a spot, order the couvert while perusing the menu; you get a plate of chunky sardines in tomato sauce, olives, and lots of pickled veggies. It's better than many of the appetizers, and goes nicely with the house sangria. The menu offers a range of fish and seafood dishes, including typically Spanish items such as paella and zarzuela, a souplike stew. The prawn dishes are made with the fresh, monster-size prawns you see in the display window. Fish lovers have the option of sole, sea bass, and snapper, which can be grilled, sautéed, broiled, or breaded. Plates come with generous side dishes of vegetables, potatoes, or rice and will easily feed two.

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