Primo is one of northern New England's top eats. The restaurant occupies two nicely decorated floors of a century-old home located a short drive south of Rockland's downtown. Owner/chef Melissa Kelly graduated first in her class at the Culinary Institute of America and won a James Beard Foundation award for "best chef in the Northeast" in the 1990s. Her Italian-inflected menu reflects the seasons and draws from local products wherever available. Start with an appetizer such as wood-fired pizza with artisanal mushrooms, planked octopus with chickpea salad, antipasti, or fried and roasted local oysters paired with rémoulade sauce and house-cured Tasso ham. Entrees might run to seared diver scallops with fettuccine, local halibut over a white bean puree, monkfish medallions with peekytoe-crab-and-risotto cakes, grilled steak or duck, or chicken with lavender-and-honey-roasted figs and a sweet ricotta gnocchi. Finish with one of co-owner/pastry chef Price Kushner's inventive desserts: warm Belgian chocolate cake, an espresso float, a rhubarb-strawberry tartlet with vanilla gelato and strawberry sauce, or a bowl of hot zeppole (small Italian doughnuts) tossed in cinnamon and sugar. The wine list is outstanding. It's hard to get a last-minute table here during summer; failing that, order off the menu from the cozy upstairs bar.