Hotels

The good news is that Rome's hotels are in better shape than they've ever been. Dozens upon dozens of properties have undergone major renovations.

The bad news is that Rome has experienced a huge surge in tourism in recent years, and finding a hotel room at any time of the year is harder than ever. Make your reservations as far ahead as possible. If you like to gamble and arrive without a reservation, head quickly to the airport information desk or, once you get into town, to the offices of Enjoy Rome -- their staff can help reserve you a room, if any are available.

Rome's high-end hotels are among the most luxurious in Europe. In addition to reviewing the best of the upscale hotels, we've tried to give you a good selection of moderately priced hotels, where you'll find comfortable, charming lodgings with private bathrooms. Even our inexpensive choices are clean and cheerful, and they offer more in services and facilities than you might expect from the prices. In the less expensive categories, you'll find a few pensioni, the Roman equivalent of a boardinghouse.

The Italian government controls the prices of its hotels, designating a minimum and a maximum rate. The difference between the two might depend on the season, the location of the room, and even its size. The government also classifies hotels with star ratings that indicate their category of comfort: five stars for deluxe, four for first class, three for second class, two for third class, and one for fourth class. Most former pensioni are now rated as one- or two-star hotels.

The distinction between a pensione hotel (where some degree of board was once required along with the room) and a regular hotel is no longer officially made, although many smaller, family-run establishments still call themselves pensioni. Government ratings don't depend on sensitivity of decoration or frescoed ceilings, but they're based on facilities, such as elevators and the like. Many of the finest hotels in Rome have a lower rating because they serve only breakfast.

Almost all the hotels listed serve breakfast (often a buffet with coffee, fruit, rolls, and cheese), but you can't take for granted that it's included in the room rate. That used to be universal, but it's not anymore, so check the listing carefully and ask the hotel to confirm what's included.

Nearly all hotels are heated in the cooler months, but not all are air-conditioned in summer, which can be vitally important during a stifling July or August. The deluxe and first-class ones are, but after that, it's a toss-up. Be sure to check the listing carefully before you book a stay in the dog days of summer!

All Italian hotels impose an IVA (Imposta sul Valore Aggiunto), or value-added tax. This tax is in effect throughout the European Union countries. It replaces some 20 other taxes and is an effort to streamline the tax structure. What does this mean for you? A higher hotel bill. Deluxe hotels will slap you with a whopping 13% tax, whereas first-class, second-class, and other hotels will impose a mere 9%. Most hotels quote a rate inclusive of this tax, but others prefer to add it on when you go to pay the bill. To avoid unpleasant surprises, ask to be quoted an all-inclusive rate -- that is, with service, even a continental breakfast (which is often obligatory) -- when you check in.