Nightlife

When the sun goes down, lights across the city bathe palaces, ruins, fountains, and monuments in a theatrical glow. There are few evening pursuits as pleasurable as a stroll past the solemn pillars of old temples or the cascading torrents of Renaissance fountains glimmering under the blue-black sky.

Of these fountains, the Naiads (Piazza della Repubblica), the Tortoises (Piazza Mattei), and, of course, the Trevi are particularly beautiful at night. The Capitoline Hill, with its measured Renaissance facades, is magnificently lit after dark. The view of the Roman Forum from the rear of the trapezoidal Piazza del Campidoglio is the grandest in Rome, more so than even the Colosseum. Bus no. 84, 85, 87, 117, 175, 186, 271, 571, or 850 takes you here at night, or you can take a taxi. If you're across the Tiber, Piazza San Pietro (in front of St. Peter's Basilica) is particularly impressive at night. Illuminated architecture, Renaissance fountains, sidewalk shows, and art expos all enliven Piazza Navona.

Even if you don't speak Italian, you can generally follow the listings of special events and entertainment in La Repubblica, one of the leading Italian newspapers. The minimag Wanted in Rome (www.wantedinrome.com) has listings of jazz, rock, and such. The daily Il Messaggero lists current cultural news. Un Ospite a Roma, available free from the concierge desks of top hotels, is full of details on what's happening.

The Performing Arts

Rome's premier cultural venue is the Teatro dell'Opera , which may not be Milan's legendary La Scala, but offers stellar performances nevertheless. The outstanding local troupe is the Rome Opera Ballet.

Rome doesn't have a major center for classical music concerts, although performances of the most important orchestra, the RAI Symphony Orchestra, most often take place at the RAI Auditorium or the Academy of St. Cecilia.

Rome is a major stopover for international stars. Rock headliners often perform at Stadio Flaminio, Foro Italico, and in the EUR, at Palazzo della Civilità del Lavoro or Palazzo dello Sport. Most concerts are at the Palazzo dello Sport.

Opera at the Baths of Caracalla -- After a long slumber (since 1993), opera has returned to the ancient Baths of Caracalla, Via della Terme di Caracalla. Productions were shut down when it was feared that nightly audiences of 5,000 were damaging the open-air ruins. The season lasts only from July 9 to August 5, and tickets should be reserved as far in advance as possible. Conservation-minded officials have ordered that once-grandiose sets be scaled down and the stage moved to 39m (128 ft.) from the actual ruins, which are now a mere backdrop and not part of the scenery, as before. Only 2,000 spots on the wooden bleachers are now available. For tickets and information, call or go to the ticket office at Piazza Benjamino Gigli 1 (tel. 06-4881755), open Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 5pm and Sunday 9am to 1:30pm. Ticket prices range from 25€ to 100€ ($30-$120).

Ballet & Dance -- Performances of the Rome Opera Ballet are given at the Teatro dell'Opera . The regular repertoire of classical ballet is supplemented by performances of internationally acclaimed guest artists, and Rome is on the agenda for major troupes from around the world. Watch for announcements in the weekly entertainment guides to see what's happening at the time of your visit and to check on other venues, including the Teatro Olimpico and open-air performances.

Nocturnal Outdoor Entertainment

In summer, the streets of Rome become a kind of outdoor festival. Many Romans live in hot apartments without air-conditioning, and they spill into the cooler streets at night to enjoy evening concerts and other events.

The best of these occur along Via di Monte Testaccio in the Testaccio sector, which becomes a venue for jam sessions, jazz concerts, and other entertainment. Bars and restaurants overflow onto the streets, and there are food stalls, markets, and shops operating until late at night. From June until August, the street is blocked off from 8:30pm to 2am and entry is free.

It might not be Mexico, but music and spicy food will entertain you at Fiesta, a complex at Ippodromo delle Capannelle that opens every year from June 15 to August 15. Salsa music predominates, and major concerts sometimes feature big names such as José Feliciano. You'll find plenty of bars, shops, and food kiosks selling such specialties as fajitas, burritos, and enchiladas. Tickets cost 10€ ($12). For more information, call tel. 06-7182139. Take the Metro to Colli Albani and then bus no. 664 to the end of the line.

The Cafe & Bar Scene

It seems there's nothing Romans like better than sitting and talking over a beverage -- usually wine or coffee. Unless you're dead set on making the Roman nightclub circuit, try what can be a far livelier and less expensive scene -- sitting late at night on Via Veneto, Piazza della Rotonda, Piazza del Popolo, or one of Rome's other piazzas, all for the cost of an espresso, a cappuccino, or a Campari.

Cafes

On the Via Veneto -- Back in the 1950s (a decade Time magazine gave to Rome, in the way it conceded the 1960s and later the 1990s to London), Via Vittorio Veneto rose in fame as the hippest street in Rome, crowded with aspiring and actual movie stars, their directors, and a fast-rising group of card-carrying members of the jet set. Today the beautiful people wouldn't be caught dead on touristy Via Veneto -- but regardless, visitors flock here by the thousands. As one Roman cafe owner told us, "You can see Romans all over the city. But on Via Veneto, sit at one of our tables and catch people from all over the world go by. It's worth the price we charge for an espresso."

Near the Pantheon -- Piazza della Rotonda, across from the Pantheon, is the place to be after dark, especially in summer. Although it's touristy, locals come here, too, because it's a dramatic place to be at night when the Pantheon is lit up.

On or Near Piazza del Popolo -- According to legend, the ashes of Nero were enshrined here until 11th-century residents began complaining to the pope about his imperial ghost. The Egyptian obelisk seen here today dates from the 13th century B.C.; it was removed from Heliopolis to Rome during the reign of Augustus (it originally stood at the Circus Maximus). The present piazza was designed in the early 19th century by Valadier, Napoleon's architect. Two almost-twin baroque churches stand on the square, overseeing the never-ending traffic.

In Trastevere -- Several cafes in Trastevere, across the Tiber, are attracting crowds. Fans who saw Fellini's Roma know what Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere looks like at night. The square, filled with milling throngs in summer, is graced with an octagonal fountain and a 12th-century church. Children play on the piazza, and occasional spontaneous guitar fests break out when the weather's good.