What's New

Today a newer and brighter Rome awaits visitors. It's gotten a bit dusty since everything was dusted off for the millennium, but ruins and decay are what you expect in such an ancient city. Augustus boasted that he found Rome a city of brick and left it one of marble. In the historic core, the emperor's claim largely rings true. Museums are better lit, hotels vastly improved, the food as good as ever, transportation modernized, and the "second Renaissance" proclaimed that the millennium is in full swing.

Here are some of the latest developments in the city that always changes but is still "eternal."

Accommodations

Close to the Spanish Steps, Fontanella Borghese, Largo Fontanella Borghese 84 (tel. 06-68809504), has been much renovated and improved, and few hotels in Rome occupy such a central position. On the third and fourth floors of a palace dating from the end of the 18th century, the building was once a possession of the Borghese princes.

Only a few minutes' walk from the Basilica of St. Peter's, Starhotel Michelangelo, Via della Stazione di S. Pietro 14 (tel. 06-398739), has been much improved and is recommendable again after a long slumber. Its rooms date from the 1950s but are now up to date with modern amenities and a glamorized decor. The on-site restaurant with its regional and international menu also has been considerably upgraded. You'll dine elegantly.

Dining

The "House of Fish," Hosteria dei Pesce, Via di Monserrato 32 (tel. 06-6865617), close to the Piazza Campo de' Fiori, has become one of Rome's finest seafood restaurants, and is today a coveted table reservation. The freshness of the fish is among the best in the city, and the catch of the day is laid out for your inspection. Once you choose from the freshly harvested baby squid, sea bass, or whatever, the chefs will prepare the bounty to your specifications, and they do so with considerable skill.

One of Rome's chicest cafes, serving complete meals, is Caffeterria Canova Tadolini, Via del Babuino 150 A/B (tel. 06-32110702). It's installed in a section of a museum dedicated to Antonio Canova, the neoclassical sculptor. Serving Roman specialties, and doing so exceedingly well, the cafe lies near Piazza del Popolo.

Management opened Glass, Vicolo del Cinque 58 (tel. 06-58335903), in "an attempt to give Trastevere back to the Romans." Lots of glass (including the floors) gives this place a modernist aura, but its food is strictly Roman with many time-tested old favorites not seen on menus in a long time -- such as the pigeon in a berry sauce encased in chicory pie.

Casina Valadier, Villa Borghese, Piazza Bucarest (tel. 06-69922090), was once one of the hottest dining tickets in Rome. It's back, and is better than ever, serving the savory Roman specialties that once made it the favorite choice of the glitterati. In addition to a sublime cuisine, you are also treated to some of the most panoramic views of Rome itself in the heart of the Villa Borghese gardens.

Incidentally, it's now possible to have a romantic picnic in these same Villa Borghese gardens by ordering the picnic from Gina, Via San Sebastianello 7A (tel. 06-6780251), complete with thermos, glasses, and linen.

Exploring Rome

At a private palazzo, open only one morning a week, you can see one of the city's most celebrated art collections at Galleria Colonna, Piazza SS. Apostoli 66 (tel. 06-6794362). Most of the paintings were acquired after the Renaissance, the finest art dating mainly from the 17th century, including works by such old masters as Jan Brueghel the Elder.

Shopping

Bargain hunters are leaving Rome and heading for the hills, in this case the town of Castel Romano, lying 10km (6 miles) east of Rome. Here they are discovering McArthurGlen Designer Outlet, Via Ponte di Piscina Cupa 51 (tel. 06-5050050), where 90 vendors display their wares, including clothing, footwear, sportswear, and other accessories. Many designer labels, such as Versace, are on sale at 35% to 75% discounts.

Italians have long been known for their quality eyewear, and one of the best new outlets is Mondello Ottica, Via del Pellegrino 98 (tel. 06-6861955), found near Campo de' Fiori. A wide selection of Italian designs, along with foreign brands, is for sale.

Degli Effetti, Piazza Capranica 75-79-93 (tel. 06-6790202), has opened near the Pantheon. This series of designer boutiques mainly stocks labels from designers not able to afford their own showcase outlets because of the stupendously high rentals in Rome.

After Dark

Testaccio is becoming the hippest nighttime district of Rome. A lot of revelers are drawn to the Latin music, especially salsa, played at the Caruso Café de Oriente, Via Monte Testaccio 36 (tel. 06-5745019). Performers from Italy and abroad appear here, as an attractive, young crowd gyrates to the sounds of Caribbean or Brazilian music.

When the weather gets hot, many Romans flee to Fregene, 38.5km (24 miles) west of the city. Here from May to September, they patronize Gilda on the Beach, Lungomare di Ponente 11 (tel. 06-66560649), with its four dance floors and first-class restaurant.

Back in Rome itself, Jonathan's Angels, Via della Fossa 14-16 (tel. 06-6893426), decorated with colorful kitsch, offers live piano music by local musicians. This is a great spot to hit after you stroll around Piazza Navona.

Side Trips From Rome

At Palestrina, the Galleria Nazional d'Arte Antica, Palazzo Barberini (tel. 06-32810), has been renovated and much improved. Although most visitors come here to look at the ancient Nile Mosaic, more and more people are discovering the museum's array of paintings, which are strong not only in Italian works, such as paintings by Fra Angelico and Filipo Lippi, but Dutch and Flemish art as well.