Ostia

26km (16 miles) southwest of Rome

Ostia Antica is one of the area's major attractions, particularly interesting if you can't make it to Pompeii. If you want to see both ancient and modern Rome, grab your swimsuit, towel, and sunblock, and take the Metro Line B from Stazione Termini to the Magliana stop. Change here for the Lido train to Ostia Antica, about 26km (16 miles) from Rome. Departures are about every half-hour, and the trip takes only 20 minutes. The Metro lets you off across the highway that connects Rome with the coast. It's just a short walk to the excavations.

Later, board the Metro again to visit the Lido di Ostia, the beach. Italy might be a Catholic country, but you won't detect any religious conservatism in the skimpy bikinis on display here. There's a carnival atmosphere, with dance halls, cinemas, and pizzerias. The Lido is set off best at Castelfusano, against a backdrop of pine woods. This stretch of shoreline is referred to as the Roman Riviera.