Frommer's Review
"Nero's Folly" finally reopened in 1999 after a 15-year restoration. After the disastrous fire of A.D. 64 swept over Rome (it has never been proven that Nero set the fire, much less fiddled while Rome burned), the emperor seized about three-quarters of the burned-out historic core (more than 80 hectares/200 acres) to create in just 4 years one of the most sumptuous palaces in history. Subsequent emperors destroyed much of the golden palace, but what remains is now on view.
The area that is the Colosseum today was a central ornamental lake reflecting the glitter of the Golden House. At the entrance Nero installed a 45m (150-ft.) statue of himself in the nude. In the words of Suetonius, "all parts of it were overlaid with gold and adorned with jewels and mother-of-pearl." During the Renaissance, painters such as Raphael chopped holes in the long-buried ceilings to gain admittance and were inspired by the frescoes. The word grotto comes from this palace because of the "grotesque" figures painted throughout. Remnants of these almost 2,000-year-old frescoes and fragments of mosaics remain. Out of the original 250 rooms, 30 are now open to the public. Some of the sculptures that survived are also on view.
However, the centuries have taken their toll. Expect a relic that gives only a hint of Nero's former abode. Since none of the rooms is labeled, you might prefer to take an audio or guided tour.
Of particular interest are the Hall of Hector and Andromache (Sala di Ettore e Andromaca), once illustrated with scenes from Homer's Iliad; the Hall of Achilles (Sala di Achille), with a gigantic shell decoration; the Hall of Ninfeo (Sala di Ninfeo), which once had a waterfall; and the Hall of the Gilded Vault (Sala della Volta Dorata), depicting satyrs raping nymphs, plus Cupid driving a chariot pulled by panthers. You'll be amazed by the beauty of the floral frescoes along the cryptoportici (long corridors); the longest is about 60m (200 ft.). The most spectacular sight is the Octagonal Hall, Nero's banqueting hall, where the menu included casseroles of flamingo tongues and other rare dishes. When Nero moved in, he shouted, "At last I can start living like a human being!"
Practical matters: When visiting the Domus Aurea, chances are you can purchase a ticket on site and return anywhere from 1 to 3 hours later for your tour. If you want more certainty of the date and time of your tour, make a reservation (by phone) at Pierreci, Via Tunisis 4 (bus no. 55N, 490, or 492; Mon-Sat 9am-1:30pm and 2:30-5pm). You may also book your visit before you leave home through Select Italy (tel. 847/853-1667 in the U.S.; www.selectitaly.com). Or, once you're in Rome, call tel. 06-39967600, where a recorded message in both Italian and English will guide you through the reservation process. The tours (whether guided or audio) last about 1 hour. Visitors enter in groups of no more than 25. Guided tours cost 3.50€ ($4.20) and are offered daily January to May and October to December at 11:20am and 6pm, and daily June to September at 11am and 3:20pm. Audio tours cost 2€ ($2.40).
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without
notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before
planning your trip.
