Hostaria Nerone

Frommer's Review

Built atop the ruins of the Golden House of Nero, this trattoria is run by the energetic de Santis family, who cook, serve, and handle the large crowds of hungry locals and visitors. Opened in 1929 at the edge of the Colle Oppio Park, it contains two compact dining rooms, plus a shrub-lined terrace with views of the Colosseum and the Baths of Trajan. The copious antipasti buffet represents the bounty of Italy's fields and seas. The pastas include savory spaghetti with clams and, our favorite, pasta fagioli (with beans). There's also grilled crayfish and swordfish, and Italian sausages with polenta. Roman-style tripe is a local favorite, but maybe you'd prefer the osso buco (braised veal shanks) with mashed potatoes and seasonal mushrooms. The broad list of some of the best Italian wines is reasonably priced.

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