Hostaria dei Bastioni

This simple but well-managed restaurant is about a minute's walk from the entrance to the Vatican Museums. Although a warm-weather terrace doubles the size during summer, many diners prefer the inside room as an escape from the roaring traffic. The menu features the staples of Rome's culinary repertoire, including fisherman's risotto (a broth-simmered rice dish studded with fresh fish, usually shellfish), a vegetarian fettuccine alla bastione with orange-flavored creamy tomato sauce, an array of grilled fresh fish, and cutlets of tender beef with mushrooms. The food is first-rate -- and a real bargain at these prices.

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