Frommer's Review
Within a pair of cramped dining rooms (one on street level, the other upstairs), you'll be served by a cheerful staff that's well practiced in hauling steaming platters of food up the steep flight of stairs. This is Rome's newest gay-owned and gay-friendly restaurant. The simple white-painted walls accented by dark timbers and panels are a nice background to the flavorful dishes that stream from the busy kitchens of Giuliano Brenna. The menu is fairly sophisticated, thanks to the owner's stint as a chef at the Hotel Eden, one of Rome's more upscale hotels. Look for elaborate antipasti such as quail and watercress in a "Parmesan basket," or marinated salmon with fresh cucumbers and pistachio nuts. You might follow with handmade ravioli filled with sea bass, lettuce, and a sauvignon sauce, or a zesty oxtail soup with artichoke hearts au gratin. Other imaginative dishes that enthralled us were duck roasted with five spices and served in a maple syrup sauce, and the baked grouper with a shellfish-laced leek sauce flavored with fresh rosemary. The restaurant's name, incidentally, translates as "cooked donkey meat," but don't look for that on the menu anytime soon.
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