L'Orso 80

Fleeing the fancy-schmancy places on Piazza Navona, we recently discovered this nugget on an unpretentious street north and a little west of the Piazza Navona. In-the-know locals have been recommending its fabulous array of tasty Roman dishes for years. The antipasti selection is absolutely delightful, and we quickly plowed into mushrooms with whole peppercorns, succulent little baby artichokes, cauliflower flavored with capers, freshly made mozzarella, fried zucchini fingers, and fagioli (beans) in tomato sauce. Terrific main courses include fresh grilled fish; pasta with porcini mushrooms; and our favorite, abbacchio allo spiedo (lamb on the spit). End your meal with ricotta cake, a real Roman specialty.

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