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This classic Dolce Vita hangout has been popular with celebrities and gourmands since its opening in the ’60s. Since then, the restaurant’s praised Roman cuisine has been replaced over the years by universally acclaimed Tuscan recipes, for which it now draws the same VIP crowds and carnivores south of the Arno. The décor is as elegant as the menu, with wood paneling, sleek finishings, and a cozy fireplace that doubles as open-hearth grill. When choosing, go for classic Tuscan hors d’oeuvres, like liver crostini and assorted bruschettas, but also focus your attention on equally classic hearty soups, like pasta e fagioli with borlotti beans, and droolsome ribollita (a minestrone added with kale, cannellini beans and bread). Grilled meats come center stage, with girarrosto (Tuscan barbecue) classics being the Fiorentina (2-pound T-bone), succulent tenderloin, filet, and a platter of mixed grilled ribs, chops and sausages. Good wine list, with a clear slant towards regional labels.