For traditional Roman cuisine, try this down-homey, non-touristy, family-run trattoria. Cucina romana, including classic carbonara, amatriciana, and cacio e pepe, win the gold, as do meat-heavy secondi like stewed tripe, or meatballs braised in tomato sauce. Local wines can be ordered by the jug or glass, and desserts (try the mascarpone with wild strawberries) come served in either full or half portions (a good thing, considering Enzo’s hefty servings). A few outdoor tables look out on some of Trastevere’s characteristic alleyways.