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Flavio’s plain dining room is burrowed out of the side of Rome’s most unusual “hill”—a large mound made from amphorae discarded during the Roman era. But this is one of the best places in the city to try well-prepped classic pastas like cacao e pepe (Pecorino cheese and black pepper), and quinto quarto entrees at fair prices. The misto umido is an ideal three-way sampler for first-timers, with portions of polpette (meatballs), coda alla vaccinara (oxtail), and involtini (stuffed rolled veal). Homemade desserts are also tasty, and the tiramisù wins the gold.