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This isn’t your typical Roman eatery. Helmed by Lucio Sforza, a renowned chef from Orvieto, L’Asino d’Oro offers a seriously refined take on the flavors of central Italy, and not a checked tablecloth in sight: the setting is contemporary with a Scandinavian feel to the light-wood interior. As for the food, it’s marked by creativity and flair, including in presentation. Expect bizarre pairings and flavor combos, like lumache in umido piccante al finocchietto selvatico (snail stew with wild fennel), or fettuccine in duck liver and vin santo sauce.