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Fresh and modern, the somewhat misnamed Retrobottega is a nice juxtaposition to the well-worn streets of the touristy heart of town. This culinary laboratory, founded by four young accomplished chefs, is also an intimate but convivial choice for a meal as most seats surround the open kitchen and customers are expected to interact directly with the cooks (there is no wait staff). A blackboard lists each day's offerings, which focus on seasonal ingredients and unexpected pairings (such as asparagus and fennel or octopus ragu).