Not so long ago, finding even a decent cup of coffee here was a struggle. Things have improved a little, but the selection is still limited and there is a fairly flexible interpretation of the word "service." There's a growing cafe scene, much of it concentrated at the lake end of Tutanekai Street, known as "The Streat." Rotorua also has around 50 restaurants -- everything from Turkish to Korean, Indonesian to Italian. For a family dining experience with great views, feast 600m (2,000 ft.) up at Aorangi Peak Restaurant, Mountain Road, Ngongotaha (tel. 07/347-0046). It pays to reserve a table. And don't forget to try the traditional Maori hangi while you're in Rotorua. Pick up the free dining guide and The Streat cafe brochure at the visitor center.